🔧 Tacoma - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Tacoma, the engine mounts (left and right) hold the engine in place and absorb vibration. Replacing worn mounts stops clunks on takeoff, excess vibration at idle, and drivetrain “thump” when shifting.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Use a wood block on the jack pad to spread the load (prevents oil pan damage).
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while lifting/lowering.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the right side is close to hot components.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Socket set 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
• Ratchet (3/8" drive)
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Pry bar
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on the mount nuts/bolts (do this 10–15 minutes early).
• Plan to replace one side at a time so the engine stays located.
• If you remove the battery for access, use a 10mm socket and keep the terminals from touching metal.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the truck

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the truck at the front crossmember.
• Set it down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed at the frame rails.
• Leave the floor jack available to support the engine.

Step 2: Remove splash shields (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool and 10mm socket to remove any lower plastic shields blocking access to the mounts.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place the wood block (2x6 or 2x8) on the floor jack pad.
• Position it under the engine oil pan and lift just until the wood block contacts firmly.
• Tip: You only need light lift support.

Step 4: Create access on the side you’re doing

• Right mount access: If needed, loosen the intake tube clamps with a flathead screwdriver and remove the air intake/air box bolts with a 10mm socket.
• Left mount access: If needed, remove the battery hold-down and terminals with a 10mm socket, then remove the battery tray bolts with a 12mm socket.

Step 5: Loosen the mount-to-frame fasteners

• From underneath, use a 17mm socket and breaker bar (1/2" drive) to loosen (do not fully remove yet) the mount nuts at the frame perch.

Step 6: Remove the mount through-bolt (engine bracket to mount)

• Use a 19mm socket, ratchet, and extensions (3", 6", 12") as needed to remove the horizontal through-bolt that connects the mount to the engine bracket.
• If the bolt binds, slightly raise/lower the engine using the floor jack to relieve tension.

Step 7: Remove the old mount

• Fully remove the frame-side nuts using a 17mm socket.
• Work the mount out of the pocket by hand; use a pry bar carefully if needed.
• Tip: Don’t pry on wiring or hoses.

Step 8: Install the new mount (same orientation)

• Set the new mount into the frame perch by hand.
• Install the frame-side nuts finger-tight using a 17mm socket (do not torque yet).

Step 9: Align and install the through-bolt

• Use the floor jack to raise/lower the engine until the bracket holes line up with the mount.
• Slide the through-bolt in by hand (use a pry bar gently only if needed).
• Install the nut and snug it with a 19mm socket and ratchet.

Step 10: Torque the mount fasteners

• Torque the mount-to-frame nuts using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs): Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Torque the mount through-bolt using a torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs): Torque to 137 Nm (101 ft-lbs).
• Slowly lower and remove the engine support using the floor jack.

Step 11: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat Steps 4–10 for the remaining engine mount.
• Reinstall any removed intake/battery parts using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.

Step 12: Reinstall splash shields and lower the truck

• Reinstall shields using a trim clip tool and 10mm socket.
• Lift slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, then lower to the ground.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle in Park. Watch the engine for excessive movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, shift R to D and back to R. Listen for clunks.
• Take a short test drive. Recheck for any new vibration and confirm no intake/battery items are loose.
• After the test drive, do a quick visual check underneath for any shifted shields or contact points.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.