🔧 Accord - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Accord uses multiple mounts to hold the engine/transmission in position and control vibration. Replacing the correct mount(s) usually fixes clunking on takeoff/shifts and excessive vibration, but each mount has a different access path and torque specs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (depending on which mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Never get under the car supported only by a jack—use jack stands.
• 🛑 Support the engine before loosening any mount hardware (a mount may be the only thing holding that corner up).
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while lifting the engine slightly; pinch points can crush fingers.
• 🛑 Let the exhaust cool fully; the rear area can be hot.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be working near the starter/positive cable routing.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set 8mm-19mm
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Extensions set 3"-12"
• Universal swivel joint 3/8"
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Phillips screwdriver #2
• Trim clip remover
• Pry bar 12"-18"
• Wood block 2x6
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (right side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Transmission mount (left side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Front lower torque mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1 (recommended)

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground, put the shifter in 1st gear, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• If you’ll be near the battery cable routing, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket (negative terminal first).
• Plan to support the engine: place a floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block 2x6 in between (the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the pan).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Tell me which mount(s) you’re replacing (required)

• Reply with one or more: Right (passenger-side) engine mount, Left (driver-side) transmission mount, Front lower mount, Rear lower mount.
• Also tell me your main symptom: vibration at idle, clunk on takeoff, clunk on shifts, or visible torn mount.

Step 2: Tell me what support method you have (required)

• Do you have an engine support bar (specialty) that holds the engine from above, or only a floor jack from below?
• This changes the safest procedure and access for some mounts.

Once you answer those 2 items, I’ll give you the exact mount-by-mount steps and torque specs for your Accord.

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✅ After Repair

• With the car still safely supported, re-check that all mount fasteners are fully seated and torqued (once I provide the specs for your mount).
• Start the engine and listen for new knocks or metal-on-metal contact.
• Test drive: gentle takeoff and 1-2 shift first, then normal driving; confirm the clunk/vibration is gone.
• Recheck fasteners after the first short drive for peace of mind.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts + labor, depends on which mount[s])

DIY Cost: $60-$450 (parts only, depends on which mount[s])

You Save: $290-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.