How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2010-2013 Hyundai Tucson (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2010-2013 Hyundai Tucson (Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement
Replacing the engine mounts on your Tucson means safely supporting the engine, removing the worn mount, and installing the new mount without letting the engine shift. Engine mounts reduce vibration and hold the engine/transaxle assembly in the correct position.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount fasteners. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, or the remaining mounts.
- ⚠️ Use a wood block between the jack and oil pan to spread the load and prevent pan damage.
- ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack. Use jack stands on solid ground.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable because you will work near electrical wiring and the battery tray area.
- ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time. Removing multiple mounts can let the drivetrain shift suddenly.
- ⚠️ Do not start the engine while any mount is loose or removed.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm wrench
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 21mm socket
- Ratchet handle
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm
- 3-inch socket extension
- 6-inch socket extension
- Universal joint socket adapter
- Flathead screwdriver
- Plastic trim removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Wood block 12-inch x 6-inch minimum
- Paint marker
- Work light
- Work gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1 if replacing passenger-side engine mount
- Left transaxle mount - Qty: 1 if replacing driver-side mount
- Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1 if replacing front lower mount
- Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1 if replacing rear lower mount
- Engine mount bracket bolts - Qty: as needed if damaged or corroded
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Tucson on a flat, solid surface.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
- Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Use a floor jack and jack stands if you need access to the lower front or rear roll stopper mounts.
- A breaker bar is a long handle used to loosen tight bolts safely.
- A roll stopper mount is a lower drivetrain mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle
- Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front center jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Leave the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal.
- Remove the cable from the battery post and position it away from the battery.
Step 3: Support the Engine
- Place a wood block on the cup of the floor jack.
- Position the jack and wood block under the engine oil pan.
- Raise the jack until the wood block just contacts the oil pan.
- Lift only enough to support the engine. Do not raise the vehicle off the jack stands.
- Support, don’t lift, the engine.
Step 4: Mark the Mount Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the current position of the mount bracket against the body or subframe.
- This helps align the new mount in the same position during installation.
Step 5: Replace the Right Engine Mount
- This is the upper passenger-side mount near the engine and right frame rail.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle to remove any plastic engine cover or intake duct fasteners blocking access.
- Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to release any wiring clips attached to the mount bracket.
- Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet handle to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket bolts.
- Use a 17mm socket or 19mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts or nuts.
- Adjust the floor jack slightly up or down until the bolts slide out without binding.
- Remove the old mount by hand.
- Install the new right engine mount by hand and start all bolts by hand first.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-engine bracket fasteners to Torque to 59-78 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Replace the Left Transaxle Mount
- This is the upper driver-side mount near the transmission side of the drivetrain.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle to remove the battery hold-down bracket.
- Use a 10mm wrench to remove the battery terminals if not already fully clear, then lift the battery out using both hands.
- Use a 10mm socket, 12mm socket, and ratchet handle to remove the battery tray fasteners.
- Use a plastic trim removal tool to release wiring retainers from the battery tray area.
- Support the transaxle side with the floor jack and wood block if the jack can safely contact the transaxle case.
- Use a 14mm socket, 17mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet handle to loosen the mount fasteners.
- Use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive if the bolts are tight.
- Adjust the jack slightly until the bolts remove smoothly.
- Remove the old transaxle mount by hand.
- Install the new left transaxle mount and start all bolts by hand.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten mount-to-transaxle bracket fasteners to Torque to 59-78 Nm (44-58 ft-lbs).
- Use a 10mm socket and 12mm socket to reinstall the battery tray.
- Use a 10mm socket to reinstall the battery hold-down bracket.
Step 7: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount
- Work from underneath the front of your Tucson.
- Use a work light to locate the front lower mount between the engine/transaxle and front subframe.
- Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to loosen the through-bolt and bracket bolts.
- Remove the through-bolt by hand after it is loose.
- Remove the old front roll stopper mount.
- Install the new mount in the same direction as the old one.
- Start all bolts by hand first.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount
- Work from underneath the rear side of the engine/transaxle assembly.
- Use a work light to locate the rear lower mount attached between the drivetrain and subframe.
- Use a universal joint socket adapter if access is angled or tight.
- Use a 17mm socket, 19mm socket, breaker bar, and 6-inch extension to loosen the through-bolt and bracket bolts.
- Adjust the floor jack slightly if the through-bolt feels pinched.
- Remove the old rear roll stopper mount.
- Install the new rear roll stopper mount in the same direction as the original.
- Start all bolts by hand first.
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm with the correct socket to tighten roll stopper fasteners to Torque to 88-107 Nm (65-79 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Final Tightening Check
- Use a torque wrench rated 10-150 Nm and recheck every mount fastener you touched.
- Make sure all wiring clips, hoses, and brackets are back in their original locations.
- Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to secure any loose clips.
Step 10: Remove Engine Support and Lower Vehicle
- Slowly lower the floor jack from under the engine using the jack handle.
- Remove the wood block.
- Use the floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower your Tucson fully to the ground.
Step 11: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the terminal until snug.
- Do not overtighten the battery terminal.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle while you listen for knocking, clunking, or unusual vibration.
- ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and listen for harsh movement.
- ✅ Take a short, gentle test drive and avoid hard acceleration at first.
- ✅ Recheck the mount fasteners after the test drive if any noise remains.
- ✅ If vibration is worse after replacement, inspect for a mount installed out of position or a mount bracket touching the body.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 depending on how many mounts are replaced
DIY Cost: $120-$550 depending on mount quality and quantity
You Save: $300-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Mount replace for these Hyundai vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2013 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2013 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2012 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2012 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2011 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |
| 2011 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.0L | - |
| 2010 Hyundai Tucson | - | Inline 4 2.4L | - |















