🔧 Tucson - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Tucson means safely supporting the engine, removing one mount at a time, and installing the new mounts in the same position. Engine mounts hold the engine steady and reduce vibration, clunking, and movement when shifting from Park to Drive or accelerating.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by hoses, wiring, exhaust, or the transmission.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the engine stays aligned in the body.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under the vehicle. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Place a wood block between the floor jack and oil pan to spread the load and avoid denting the pan.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the engine bay.
• ⚠️ Do not start the engine while any mount is removed.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm wrench
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
• Ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive
• 3-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wood block 2x6-inch
• Wheel chocks
• Flat trim removal tool
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Paint marker
• Shop light
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left transmission mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Front roll stopper mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Rear roll stopper mount - Qty: 1 if replacing as a set
• Engine mount fasteners - Qty: 1 set if damaged, stretched, or corroded

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tucson on level ground.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• Use a 10mm wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Use a paint marker to mark each mount’s position before removing it. This helps keep the engine aligned.
• A roll stopper mount is a mount that limits engine rocking during acceleration and shifting.
• A through-bolt is the long bolt that passes through the center of a mount bracket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Vehicle

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tucson at the front subframe lift point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the front pinch weld or subframe support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands.
• Keep the floor jack nearby for supporting the engine.

Step 2: Remove the Lower Engine Splash Shield

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove the splash shield bolts.
• Use a flat trim removal tool or small flathead screwdriver to remove any plastic clips.
• Set the splash shield aside.

Step 3: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6-inch on top of the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan, near the center of the pan.
• Raise the jack just until the wood contacts the pan and takes light engine weight.
• Do not lift the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Tip: Support, do not lift.

Step 4: Replace the Right Engine Mount

• The right engine mount is on the passenger side of the engine bay near the coolant reservoir area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position on the body and bracket.
• If access is blocked, use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove nearby plastic covers or small brackets.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive to loosen the engine-side mount nuts/bolts.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to remove the body-side mount bolts.
• Slowly raise or lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum until the bolts slide out without force.
• Remove the old right engine mount from the engine bay.
• Install the new right engine mount in the same position.
• Start all bolts and nuts by hand before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 17mm socket to tighten the right engine mount fasteners to Torque to 65-75 Nm (48-55 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the Left Transmission Mount

• The left transmission mount is on the driver side of the engine bay near the transmission.
• Move the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and wood block 2x6-inch so the transmission side is lightly supported.
• Use a paint marker to mark the mount position.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to remove any air duct or battery tray parts blocking access, if needed.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive for smaller bracket bolts if the battery tray must be moved.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and 6-inch extension 1/2-inch drive to loosen the transmission mount bolts.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to adjust the transmission height slightly until the mount bolts slide out smoothly.
• Remove the old left transmission mount.
• Install the new mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 17mm socket to tighten the transmission mount fasteners to Torque to 65-75 Nm (48-55 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Replace the Front Roll Stopper Mount

• The front roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath at the front lower engine/transmission area.
• Use a shop light to locate the mount between the powertrain and front subframe area.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bracket location.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to remove the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket with a ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to remove the bracket bolts, depending on bolt size fitted.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only for gentle alignment. Do not force the bracket.
• Install the new front roll stopper mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the roll stopper through-bolt to Torque to 95-110 Nm (70-81 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the roll stopper bracket bolts to Torque to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Replace the Rear Roll Stopper Mount

• The rear roll stopper mount is accessed from underneath toward the rear of the engine/transmission near the subframe.
• Use a shop light to locate the rear mount and its through-bolt.
• Use a paint marker to mark the bracket position.
• Use a 17mm socket, breaker bar 1/2-inch drive, and ratchet handle 1/2-inch drive to remove the through-bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket or 17mm socket to remove the mount bracket bolts.
• Adjust the engine height slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum if the bolts bind.
• Install the new rear roll stopper mount and start all bolts by hand.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the roll stopper through-bolt to Torque to 95-110 Nm (70-81 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the roll stopper bracket bolts to Torque to 55-65 Nm (41-48 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Recheck Engine Alignment

• Use a shop light to inspect each mount and bracket.
• Make sure every bolt is seated flat and every nut is fully threaded.
• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lower the engine fully onto the new mounts.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to recheck the mount fasteners after the engine weight is on the mounts.

Step 9: Reinstall Removed Covers and Brackets

• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to reinstall any plastic covers, air duct pieces, or small brackets removed earlier.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to reinstall battery tray bolts if removed.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten small 10mm-head bolts to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten 12mm-head bracket bolts to Torque to 18-24 Nm (13-18 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Engine Splash Shield

• Raise the splash shield into position by hand.
• Use a flat trim removal tool to help align plastic clips.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive to reinstall the splash shield bolts.
• Use a torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the splash shield bolts to Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).

Step 11: Lower the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Tucson slowly to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks after the vehicle is fully on the ground.

Step 12: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the cable clamp until it cannot rotate by hand.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. Watch for unusual vibration, clunks, or engine movement.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive, and listen for knocking.
• ✅ Take a short test drive at low speed first.
• ✅ Recheck mount fasteners after the test drive if any vibration or clunk remains.
• ✅ If the idle feels rough only when the A/C is on, inspect the mount seating and engine idle condition.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,300 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$550 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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