🔧 Corolla - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Corolla uses multiple mounts (one on the passenger side, one on the driver side at the transmission, and torque mounts that control engine rocking). Replacing the correct mount(s) requires supporting the engine safely, removing the mount/bracket hardware, then reinstalling and tightening everything to Toyota torque specs.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts/nuts.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; never work under a car held by a jack only.
• ⚠️ Do not jack directly on the oil pan—always use a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while adjusting engine height; it can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if working near the starter/positive cable.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Metric wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Extensions (3", 6")
• Universal swivel adapter
• Trim clip removal tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Work light
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Passenger-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Driver-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Lift the front and place the car securely on jack stands at the factory jack points.
• Place a floor jack under the engine with a wood block between the jack pad and the engine (this spreads the load so you don’t dent parts).
• If you’ll be working near the starter/positive cable on the transmission side, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which mount(s) you’re replacing

• Look from above at the passenger-side mount near the coolant reservoir/engine side cover, and from below at the front/rear torque mounts on the subframe.
• Use a work light to locate torn rubber, leaking fluid (on hydraulic-style mounts), or separated rubber.
• Reply with which one(s): Passenger-side engine mount, Driver-side transmission mount, Front torque mount, Rear torque mount.

Step 2: Stop here so I can give you the correct Toyota torque specs

• Toyota uses different bolt sizes/torques per mount and bracket, and tightening them wrong can cause vibration or broken studs.
• Please answer these two quick questions and I’ll give you the exact step-by-step for your specific mount(s), including every torque value:
• 1) Which mount(s) are you replacing (from Step 1 list)?
• 2) Are you using OEM-style mounts or aftermarket mounts?

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration at idle.
• Shift through gears with the clutch depressed (foot on brake) and watch for excessive engine movement.
• Test drive and listen for clunks on acceleration/deceleration.
• Recheck all accessible mount fasteners after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $270-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.