🔧 Altima - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Altima, “engine mounts” can mean any of the 4 mounts (right/passenger-side engine mount, left/driver-side transmission mount, and the front + rear torque mounts). The steps, access points, and torque specs change depending on which mount(s) you’re replacing, so I need one quick detail before I lay out the exact procedure.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-4.0 hours (depending on how many mounts)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts/nuts.
• ⚠️ Never jack directly on the oil pan—use a wood block on the jack pad to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands, not the jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine slightly for alignment.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not usually required, but keep tools away from the battery positive terminal.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block (2x4 or similar)
• Metric socket set (8mm-19mm)
• Metric wrench set (10mm-19mm)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Work light
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Front lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Rear lower torque mount - Qty: 1
• Replacement mount fasteners (if specified by kit) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Plan to support the engine using a floor jack with a wood block under the engine (this lifts gently and prevents damage).
• Two quick questions so I give you the exact mount-by-mount steps + torque specs:
  • Which mount(s) are you replacing: right, left (trans), front torque, rear torque, or all four?
  • Are you doing this because of vibration at idle or a clunk/thump on takeoff/shifting?

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Safely support the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point, then place jack stands under the front support points.
• Confirm stability by lightly rocking the car before going underneath.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a wood block on the floor jack pad.
• Raise the jack until it just contacts the engine from below and takes a small amount of weight. Lift only a little at a time.

Step 3: Stop here for the correct mount procedure

• The next steps depend on which mount(s) you’re replacing (right/left/front/rear), and I don’t want you loosening the wrong bracket or missing a required removal step.
• Reply with the mount position(s), and I’ll give you the exact removal/install sequence and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values for each fastener.

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine supported, double-check all mount bolts/nuts are installed and fully torqued before lowering the engine.
• Lower the engine slowly using the floor jack, watching that the mount studs line up without binding.
• Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration, banging, or contact between engine/exhaust and the body.
• Take a short test drive and recheck for clunks during takeoff and shifting.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)

DIY Cost: $60-$400 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)

You Save: $290-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.