How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2009-2023 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque guidance
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2009-2023 Ford F-150 (Engine: V8 5.0L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque guidance
🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement
On your F-150, the engine mounts hold the engine in place and isolate vibration. Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine, removing the failed mount(s), and installing the new mount(s) with the engine sitting at the correct height. Assumption: replacing both left and right engine mounts.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang from hoses, wiring, or the transmission.
- Work on a level surface and use jack stands under the frame. Do not rely on a floor jack alone.
- Keep hands clear when raising or lowering the engine with a jack.
- Let the engine cool fully before starting. Exhaust and turbo components can be very hot.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you will be working near starter wiring or exposed electrical connectors.
- If a mount bracket has to be loosened on the frame or crossmember, support the engine first so it does not shift suddenly.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Wood block
- Metric socket set
- Ratchet
- Long-handled breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- Metric wrench set
- Extensions
- Universal joint socket adapter
- Trim clip removal tool
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Left engine mount - Qty: 1
- Right engine mount - Qty: 1
- Engine mount bolts - Qty: 1 set
- Frame-side hardware - Qty: 1 set
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and make sure you have enough working room on both sides.
- If equipped, remove the lower splash shield or skid plate for access.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable if you need extra safety around wiring.
- Support the engine from above with an engine support bar if available. If not, use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan only to lift slightly.
- Do not lift the engine high.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and secure the truck
- Use a floor jack and jack stands to raise and support the front of the vehicle.
- Make sure the truck is stable before working underneath.
- Remove the lower splash shield or skid plate with the correct metric socket if equipped.
Step 2: Support the engine
- Place an engine support bar across the fenders and attach it to the engine lifting points, or use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan.
- Raise the engine only until the weight is just taken off the mounts.
- Lift slowly and watch for movement.
Step 3: Access the engine mount fasteners
- Use the metric socket set, ratchet, extensions, and universal joint adapter to reach the mount nuts and bolts.
- Remove any heat shields, braces, or access covers blocking the mount area.
- Keep the fasteners organized by side.
Step 4: Remove the old engine mount
- Use the metric wrench set and socket set to remove the frame-side and engine-side mount fasteners.
- Lower or raise the engine slightly with the jack or support bar to create clearance.
- Remove the mount from the vehicle.
- If the mount bracket is separate, remove it the same way.
Step 5: Install the new engine mount
- Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
- Start all bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the floor jack or engine support bar to align the holes if needed.
- Tighten the fasteners evenly.
- Torque to factory specification for the engine mount and bracket bolts.
Step 6: Repeat on the other side
- If replacing both mounts, repeat the removal and installation steps on the opposite side.
- Keep the engine supported the entire time.
- Make sure the engine sits centered before final torque.
Step 7: Reinstall underbody parts and lower the truck
- Reinstall any braces, shields, or the skid plate using the trim clip tool and metric socket set.
- Lower the truck carefully off the jack stands.
- Remove the engine support only after the vehicle is back on the ground and the mounts are secured.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check for excess movement or vibration.
- Listen for clunks when shifting from Park to Drive and Reverse.
- Inspect the mounts visually while the engine is running.
- Take a short test drive and confirm the engine feels stable under load.
- If you disconnected the battery, reset any lost settings such as clock or radio presets.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)
You Save: $520-$950 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















