How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2008 Ford Escape (All Mounts & Torque Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth, vibration-free repair
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2008 Ford Escape (All Mounts & Torque Strut Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for a smooth, vibration-free repair


đź”§ Escape - Engine Mount Replacement
On your Escape, the engine/transmission mounts hold the powertrain in place and control vibration. Replacing them usually involves supporting the engine safely, unbolting the worn mount(s), and installing the new ones in the correct order.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-6 hours (depends on which mounts)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Never get under the vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
- 🛑 Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts; sudden shifting can pinch fingers and damage hoses.
- 🛑 If you use a floor jack under the engine, always use a wood block to spread the load and avoid cracking the oil pan.
- 🛑 Keep hands clear when raising/lowering the engine; it can move suddenly as mounts unload.
- 🛑 Let the exhaust cool completely before working near it.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wood block (2x6 or similar, 12-18 in long)
- Metric socket set (8mm-21mm)
- Metric wrench set (8mm-21mm)
- 3/8 in ratchet
- 1/2 in breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
- Extensions (3 in, 6 in)
- Universal joint adapter
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Engine support bar (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left-side transmission mount - Qty: 1
- Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
- Front torque mount - Qty: 1
- Replacement mount fasteners (if required by kit) - Qty: 1 set
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- đź§± Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove any plastic engine cover (if equipped) using a trim clip tool.
- Spray visible mount bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
- Quick questions (so I give you the exact correct steps + torque specs):
- Which mount(s) are you replacing: right engine, left transmission, front torque, rear torque, or all of them?
- Do you have an engine support bar (goes across the fenders and holds the engine from above), or will you be supporting from below with a floor jack + wood block?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Safely support the vehicle
- Use wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Lift the front with a floor jack at the approved front jacking point.
- Set the vehicle down on jack stands placed at the front support points.
Step 2: Support the engine (required before loosening mounts)
- Option A (preferred): Install an engine support bar (specialty) across the strut towers and tension it just enough to hold the engine.
- Option B: Position a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a wood block under a strong area near the engine/transmission and raise gently until you see the mount just start to unload.
- Lift only a little at a time.
Step 3: Replace the specific mount(s)
- Once you tell me which mount(s) you’re doing, I’ll give you the exact removal order, access steps (airbox/battery tray/splash shield), and the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for each fastener on your Escape.
Step 4: Tighten with the engine at normal resting position
- After the mount is installed, lower/adjust the engine so it sits naturally (no twist) before final tightening.
- Use a torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range) for final tightening: Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs).
âś… After Repair
- With the vehicle still supported, visually check that no hoses/wiring are stretched or pinched.
- Start the engine and watch for excessive movement while shifting (clutch in) and lightly blipping the throttle.
- Test drive and listen for clunks on acceleration/deceleration.
- Recheck mount fasteners after a short drive: Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs).
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$1,200 (parts + labor, depends on how many mounts)
DIY Cost: $80-$450 (parts only, depends on how many mounts)
You Save: $300-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















