🔧 Tahoe - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts hold the engine in position and absorb vibration. When they tear or collapse, you’ll feel clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration, or see the engine “lift” when you rev in gear.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before unbolting any mount; the engine can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never lift the engine by the oil pan without a wood block; the pan can dent and cause oil pickup damage.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands; do not work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended to prevent accidental shorting at the starter/alternator area.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
• Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm sockets
• Wrench set: 15mm, 18mm, 21mm combination wrenches
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive ratchet
• Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
• Extensions: 3", 6", 12"
• Swivel socket adapter (universal joint)
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
• Trim clip tool
• Flathead screwdriver
• Penetrating oil
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands (leave room to work under the engine).
• Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10 minutes.
• Tip: Replace mounts in pairs for best results.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver to remove push-pins/clips.
• Use a 10mm socket to remove any small bolts holding the shield.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a wood block (2x6 or 2x8) on the pad of the floor jack.
• Roll the jack under the engine and position the wood block under a strong, flat area of the lower engine (near the front of the oil pan rail area).
• Jack up just until you see the engine weight slightly supported (do not lift the truck).
• Tip: Lift only 1/4"–1/2" at a time.

Step 3: Loosen (but don’t remove) the mount-to-frame nuts

• At each mount, locate the studs/nuts where the mount attaches to the frame perch.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the nuts a few turns.

Step 4: Remove the engine mount through-bolt

• Find the long horizontal bolt that passes through the mount (this is the “through-bolt”).
• Use 18mm and 21mm wrenches (or matching sockets) to remove the bolt and nut.
• If the bolt binds, raise/lower the engine slightly with the floor jack to relieve pressure.

Step 5: Remove the mount-to-frame nuts and free the mount

• Finish removing the mount-to-frame nuts using a 15mm or 18mm socket.
• Lift the engine slightly with the floor jack (small amount) to create clearance.
• Work the old mount out. Use a shop light so you can see the “ears” of the mount and the frame perch.

Step 6: Install the new mount (leave hardware loose at first)

• Set the new mount into the frame perch in the same orientation as the old one.
• Install the mount-to-frame nuts by hand first.
• Align the mount and bracket holes by raising/lowering the engine with the floor jack.
• Slide the through-bolt in by hand; use a swivel socket adapter and extensions only if needed.

Step 7: Torque the fasteners

• Tighten the through-bolt using a torque wrench: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Tighten the mount-to-frame nuts using a torque wrench: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
• If you removed any engine mount bracket-to-engine bolts (some repairs require this for clearance), tighten using a torque wrench: Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Repeat on the other side (if replacing both)

• Move the shop light and repeat Steps 3–7 for the other mount.
• Keep the engine supported with the floor jack the entire time.

Step 9: Reinstall the splash shield and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall the shield using a 10mm socket and trim clip tool.
• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle; confirm the engine sits level and doesn’t rock excessively.
• With the brake firmly held, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive and listen for clunks (normal slight movement is OK).
• Test drive and recheck for any new vibration or rattles.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners for tightness after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

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Quick check (pick one): Are you replacing left, right, or both mounts?

Also: Do you have a floor jack + jack stands, or only the factory jack?