🔧 Suburban - Engine Mount Replacement

Engine mounts support the engine and isolate vibration. Replacing worn mounts reduces clunks on acceleration/braking and prevents exhaust, fan shroud, and driveline stress.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack—use jack stands on the frame.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack and a wood block; do not jack directly on the oil pan.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear while lifting the engine; mounts can shift suddenly.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; the pipes/manifolds run close to the mounts.
• ⚠️ If you remove the starter power cable area, disconnect the negative battery cable first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 in. minimum)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (metric 10mm-21mm)
• Wrench set (metric 10mm-21mm)
• Extensions (3" and 6")
• Swivel socket adapter
• Pry bar (18")
• Trim clip tool
• Penetrating oil
• Work light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount-to-frame bolts - Qty: 4
• Engine mount-to-engine bracket nuts/bolts - Qty: 2

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Spray penetrating oil on all engine mount fasteners and let it soak 10-15 minutes.
• Plan to replace mounts as a pair for best vibration control.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Before I give the exact steps and torque specs, I need 2 quick details:

• Are you 2WD or 4WD? (Access and hardware differ.)
• Are you replacing both engine mounts only, or engine mounts + transmission mount?

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch for excessive movement while shifting from Park to Reverse to Drive (foot on brake).
• Road test for clunks on acceleration/braking and new vibrations at idle.
• Recheck all fasteners after the first short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $480-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.