🔧 Tacoma - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Tacoma, the engine is supported by a left and right engine mount (rubber “insulators” bolted between the engine and frame). Replacing them requires safely supporting the engine, lifting it slightly, and swapping each mount without stressing hoses, wiring, or the fan/shroud.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening mounts; it can drop suddenly.
• ⚠️ Never get under the truck supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Lift the engine slowly and only a little; watch for stretched hoses/wires.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear of pinch points between mount brackets and frame.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set 10mm-19mm
• Wrench set 10mm-19mm
• Breaker bar 1/2"
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Pry bar 18"
• Wood block 2x6
• Work light
• Trim clip tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount (engine insulator) - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount (engine insulator) - Qty: 1
• New engine mount nuts/bolts (hardware kit) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, put the transmission in 1st gear, and chock the rear wheels.
• Let the engine cool completely.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Lift the front and support the frame on jack stands (not the suspension).
• Have your wood block ready: it spreads load so the jack doesn’t damage the oil pan.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Before I give torque-specific steps, answer these 2 quick questions:

• Are you replacing both left and right engine mounts, or also the rear transmission mount?
• Do you have a torque wrench that reads up to 150 ft-lbs?

Torque values differ by fastener location; I’ll tailor it.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration at idle and in gear.
• Inspect that no hoses, wiring, or the exhaust are contacting the frame.
• Recheck visible mount fasteners after a short test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $150-$400 (parts only)

You Save: $450-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.