How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2007 Nissan Altima (All Mounts Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec guidance
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2007 Nissan Altima (All Mounts Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec guidance


đź”§ Altima - Engine Mount Replacement
Replacing engine mounts on your Altima means safely supporting the engine, unbolting the worn mount(s), and installing the new ones in the correct order so the drivetrain sits square and doesn’t bind or vibrate. The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount you’re replacing (right/passenger, left/driver transmission mount, front torque mount, rear torque mount).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours (depends how many mounts)
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; an unsupported engine can drop suddenly.
- ⚠️ Never get under the car supported only by a floor jack—use jack stands.
- ⚠️ Use a wood block between jack and oil pan; it spreads the load to avoid pan damage.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while raising/lowering the engine.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be working near the starter/positive cable area: remove negative terminal first.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wood block (2x6 or 2x8)
- Socket set 10mm-19mm
- Ratchet 3/8" drive
- Breaker bar 1/2" drive
- Extensions 3" and 6"
- Wrench set 10mm-19mm
- Torque wrench 10-200 Nm range
- Trim clip tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pry bar 18"
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
- Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
- Front torque mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
- Rear torque mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing)
- New mount nuts/bolts (recommended) - Qty: 1 set (as needed)
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Open the hood and remove loose items from the engine bay.
- If you’ll be near battery/starter wiring: use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal.
- Spray visible mount fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes.
- Tip: Replacing mounts one-at-a-time keeps alignment easier.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Answer these 2 quick questions (so I give the exact mount steps + correct torque specs)
- Which mount(s) are you replacing: right engine mount, left transmission mount, front torque mount, rear torque mount, or all?
- Do you have a torque wrench available?
Step 2: Safely raise and support the car
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Use a floor jack at the front center jacking point to lift the front.
- Set the car down onto jack stands at the front pinch welds or approved support points.
Step 3: Support the engine (this is the critical part)
- Slide the floor jack under the engine oil pan area.
- Place the wood block on the jack pad, then gently jack up until the wood contacts the oil pan.
- Raise the jack just enough to take the weight off the mounts (you’ll usually see the mount “relax”).
- Tip: Don’t lift the engine high—just support it.
Step 4: Identify the mount you’re doing first
- Use a flashlight (phone light is fine) and locate:
- Right mount: passenger side, up high near the timing cover area.
- Left mount: driver side on top of the transmission.
- Front/rear torque mounts: lower mounts that control rocking.
- Use a paint marker to mark the mount/bracket position before loosening bolts.
Step 5: Stop here before loosening mount bolts
- Different mounts use different bolt sizes and different torque specs.
- Reply with your answers from Step 1 and I’ll give you the exact, mount-specific removal/install sequence and the correct torques for your Altima.
âś… After Repair
- Double-check every mount fastener is tightened and the engine sits level.
- Start the engine and let it idle; watch for excessive movement while you lightly blip the throttle.
- Test drive and listen for clunks on acceleration/deceleration.
- Recheck mount fasteners after a short drive.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $400-$1,200 (parts + labor, depending on how many mounts)
DIY Cost: $80-$450 (parts only, depending on how many mounts)
You Save: $320-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















