🔧 Explorer - Engine Mount Replacement

Your Explorer’s engine mounts hold the engine in the correct position and absorb vibration. When a mount tears or collapses, you can get clunks on acceleration/braking, extra vibration, or even exhaust/driveability issues because the engine shifts.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never work under a jack alone.
• 🛑 Support the engine before unbolting a mount. Use a jack with a wood block to spread the load and avoid crushing the oil pan.
• 🛑 Let the exhaust cool fully; the mount area is close to hot exhaust parts.
• 🛑 Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; it can shift suddenly.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near starter wiring on the left side.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wood block (2x6 in, 12-18 in long)
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-150 ft-lbs range)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive socket set (8mm-19mm)
• 1/2" drive socket set (13mm-21mm)
• Extensions (3", 6", 12")
• Universal joint adapter
• Combination wrench set (13mm-19mm)
• Flat trim tool
• Penetrating oil
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Left (driver-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener kit (nuts/bolts) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and remove any loose items from the engine bay.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• Spray penetrating oil on the mount-to-frame bolts and mount nuts from underneath. Let it soak 10–15 minutes.
• Tip: Take photos before removing brackets.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the truck

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the crossmember.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails and lower onto the stands.
• Confirm stability by gently rocking the truck before going underneath.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use a flat trim tool to pop plastic clips, and a 8mm-10mm socket (varies) to remove bolts.
• Set the shield and hardware aside.

Step 3: Support the engine

• Place the wood block (2x6 in, 12-18 in long) on the jack pad of the floor jack.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan area and raise the jack until the block just contacts and lightly supports the engine.
• Avoid lifting hard yet—this is just “taking the weight” off the mounts.
• Tip: Lift only 1/4–1/2 inch at a time.

Step 4: Loosen the right (passenger-side) engine mount fasteners

• From underneath, locate the right mount between the engine bracket and the frame perch.
• Use a 15mm-18mm socket with a breaker bar and extensions to loosen (do not fully remove yet) the mount-to-frame bolts.
• Use a 15mm-18mm socket to loosen the mount nut(s) on the mount stud(s).

Step 5: Lift the engine slightly to unload the right mount

• Use the floor jack to lift the engine just enough to create a small gap at the mount (usually about 1/2").
• Watch hoses, the fan shroud area, and wiring so nothing gets stretched.

Step 6: Remove and replace the right engine mount

• Use a 15mm-18mm socket to remove the mount-to-frame bolts fully.
• Use a 15mm-18mm socket to remove the mount nut(s) fully.
• Work the mount out. A universal joint adapter can help around tight angles.
• Install the new mount in the same orientation, by hand-starting all bolts/nuts first (prevents cross-threading).
• Snug hardware with a 3/8" drive ratchet but do final torque later.

Step 7: Repeat for the left (driver-side) engine mount

• Move your light to the left mount. Access is tighter near steering/suspension/exhaust.
• Use extensions (3", 6", 12") and a universal joint adapter with a 15mm-18mm socket to loosen/remove the mount-to-frame bolts and mount nut(s).
• Use the floor jack to adjust engine height slightly as needed to slide the mount out and the new one in.
• Hand-start all fasteners, then snug with a 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Lower the engine onto the new mounts

• Slowly lower the engine with the floor jack until it fully seats on both mounts.
• Check that the mount studs line up cleanly and are not in a bind.

Step 9: Torque all mount fasteners

• Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench (30-150 ft-lbs range) to torque fasteners.
• Engine mount-to-frame bolts: Torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs)
• Engine mount nut(s) to engine bracket/stud: Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs)
• If your replacement mount kit includes new fasteners with different specs, follow the fastener kit’s torque spec.

Step 10: Reinstall shields and reconnect the battery

• Reinstall the splash shield using the 8mm-10mm socket and any clips using the flat trim tool.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

Step 11: Lower the truck

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the truck to the ground.
• Remove wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle. Listen for new noises and watch for excessive engine movement.
• With your foot on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse to Drive. You should feel less clunking.
• Take a short test drive. Recheck for any loose hardware sounds.
• After the drive, do a quick underneath inspection for any shifted shields or contact marks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $700-$1,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $580-$1,050 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.