🔧 Impala - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Impala, “engine mounts” can mean the upper passenger-side engine mount, the transmission-side mount, and the lower “torque strut” mounts that control engine rocking. The exact steps and torque specs change depending on which mount you’re replacing.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-3.5 hours (depends on which mount)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts (it can shift suddenly).
• ⚠️ Never jack directly on the oil pan—use a wood block to spread the load.
• ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and bracket while raising/lowering the engine.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground with the rear wheels chocked.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cables: remove the negative terminal first.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Socket set (8mm-21mm)
• Ratchet (3/8")
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Extension set (3" and 6")
• Wobble extension (3/8")
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Flat screwdriver
• Trim clip tool
• Wood block (2x4 or 2x6, 10"-12" long)
• Penetrating oil
• Shop light

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount (upper passenger-side) - Qty: 1 (if replacing this mount)
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1 (if replacing this mount)
• Lower torque strut mount(s) - Qty: 1-2 (if replacing these mounts)
• Engine mount hardware (bolts/nuts) - Qty: 1 set (recommended if specified as one-time-use)

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to P, set the parking brake, and install wheel chocks.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool fully.
• If you’ll be working near the battery/starter wiring, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket (negative terminal first).
• Plan to support the engine: place a floor jack under the engine with a wood block between the jack and engine. (The wood spreads pressure so you don’t crack or dent parts.)
• Take a quick photo of each mount area first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which mount you’re replacing

• With the hood open, locate the upper passenger-side engine mount near the belt side of the engine.
• From under the front, look for the lower torque mount(s) (they look like a short link/bushing that limits engine rocking).
• On the driver side, the transmission mount supports the transaxle.
• Use a shop light to confirm which mount is torn/cracked or leaking.

Step 2: Safely raise and support the car (if doing lower mounts)

• Use a floor jack to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands and give the car a firm push to confirm it’s stable.

Step 3: Support the engine before loosening any mount bolts

• Place a wood block on the floor jack pad.
• Raise the jack until it just contacts and lightly supports the engine (do not lift the car).
• “Light support” prevents bolt binding.

Step 4: Gain access (varies by mount)

• For the upper mount area, remove any plastic covers/clips using a trim clip tool and flat screwdriver.
• For lower mounts, remove any splash shield fasteners using your socket set (8mm-10mm).
• Spray visible mount bolts/nuts with penetrating oil and wait 5-10 minutes.

Step 5: STOP here for the correct removal steps and torque specs

• Reply with which mount you’re replacing so I can give the exact bolt locations, removal order, and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values.
• Please answer these two quick questions:
• 1) Which mount: upper passenger-side, lower front torque, lower rear torque, or transmission mount?
• 2) Are you replacing just one mount or all mounts?

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✅ After Repair

• Visually confirm the mount sits flat and isn’t twisted.
• Lower the jack supporting the engine slowly and watch for shifting or binding.
• Start the engine and check for abnormal vibration at idle and when shifting from P to R to D.
• Test drive and recheck for clunks on takeoff.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$1,200 (parts + labor, depends on mount count)

DIY Cost: $60-$350 (parts only, depends on mount count)

You Save: $290-$850 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-3.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.