🔧 Engine Mounts - Replacement

This repair covers replacing the worn engine mount(s) on your Camry. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunks, and harsh shifting because the engine is no longer being held firmly in place.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Support the engine before removing any mount. Never let the engine hang by the remaining mounts.
• Use a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan only for light support. Do not lift the engine high.
• Keep hands clear of pinch points while raising or lowering the engine.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
• If a mount is near the starter, exhaust, or drive belt area, let the engine cool first.
• Work on level ground and use jack stands. Do not rely on the jack alone.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 10mm socket
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• Ratchet
• Long extension set
• Pry bar
• Hydraulic jack or engine support bar (specialty)
• Wood block

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine mount - Qty: 1 or more as needed
• Mounting hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Replacement subframe bolts - Qty: 1 set if removed

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable with a 10mm socket.
• Raise the front of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands if access is needed from below.
• Use a hydraulic jack with a wood block or an engine support bar to hold the engine slightly loaded.
• Lift slowly and only enough to take weight off the mount.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect power and prepare the vehicle

• Use a 10mm socket to remove the negative battery cable.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• If working from underneath, raise the front and place it securely on jack stands.

Step 2: Support the engine

• Place a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the engine weight.
• If you have an engine support bar (specialty), use that instead for better control.
• Do not lift hard against the oil pan.

Step 3: Remove access parts

• Use the 10mm socket and 12mm socket to remove any plastic covers, intake ducting, or undertrays blocking the mount area.
• Keep hardware organized by location.

Step 4: Loosen the mount fasteners

• Use the 14mm socket and 17mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the engine mount nuts and bolts.
• If the engine shifts slightly, adjust the jack height until the fasteners come out smoothly.
• Remove the mount bolts first, then the mount itself.

Step 5: Remove the old mount

• Lift or lower the engine a small amount with the floor jack to create clearance.
• Use a pry bar only if needed to free the mount from its brackets.
• Remove the mount carefully without forcing nearby hoses or wiring.

Step 6: Install the new mount

• Position the new mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Start all bolts by hand first so the threads do not cross.
• Use the 14mm socket and 17mm socket to snug the fasteners.
• Tighten to factory specification for the mount bolts and nuts.

Step 7: Reassemble and lower the vehicle

• Reinstall any covers, ducts, or shields with the 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
• Lower the engine support slowly and make sure the mount sits correctly.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable with the 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and watch for unusual vibration or movement.
• Shift from Park to Reverse and Drive with your foot on the brake to check for clunks.
• Inspect the mount area for anything pinched or left loose.
• Take a short test drive and recheck all fasteners afterward.
• Some vibration is normal for a few minutes after reassembly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$1,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $330-$650 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-6 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.