How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2007-2011 Nissan Altima (All Mount Locations) (Trim: Hybrid | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools list, safety tips, and mount identification for the right, left, and torque mounts
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 2007-2011 Nissan Altima (All Mount Locations) (Trim: Hybrid | Engine: Inline 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools list, safety tips, and mount identification for the right, left, and torque mounts for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011
🔧 Altima - Engine Mount Replacement
Engine mounts hold the engine/transmission in place and absorb vibration. On your Altima there are multiple mounts (right/passenger, left/driver transmission-side, and torque mounts), and the steps + torque specs change depending on which one(s) you’re replacing.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat surface and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep the hybrid system OFF: verify the dash is not in READY mode, remove the key/fob from the car.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal to prevent an accidental start or fans cycling.
- ⚠️ Support the engine before removing any mount; the engine can drop and damage hoses, wiring, or the radiator.
- ⚠️ Avoid pulling or stressing any orange high-voltage cables (hybrid components).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wood block (2x4)
- Engine support bar (specialty)
- Metric socket set 8mm–19mm
- Metric wrench set 8mm–19mm
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- Torque wrench (10–200 Nm range)
- Extensions set (3", 6", 12")
- Universal joint adapter
- Trim clip remover
- Flathead screwdriver
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Work light
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Right (passenger-side) engine mount - Qty: 1
- Left (driver-side) transmission mount - Qty: 1
- Front torque mount (dogbone mount) - Qty: 1
- Rear torque mount (dogbone mount) - Qty: 1
- Engine mount fastener kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- Turn the car fully OFF (not READY), remove the key/fob from the cabin.
- Open the trunk and disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Spray visible mount nuts/bolts with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
- Please answer these so I can give the correct torque specs and exact steps:
- Which mount(s) are you replacing: right, left, front torque, rear torque, or all?
- Do you have an engine support bar, or will you be supporting the engine from underneath with a floor jack + wood block?
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Identify the mount(s) and access path
- Use your phone camera and a work light to locate the mount you’re replacing (right mount is near the passenger-side strut tower; left is near the driver-side frame rail; torque mounts are typically lower and accessed from underneath).
- Reply with which mount(s) you’re doing so I can provide the exact removal order and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) values without guessing.
- Mount jobs vary a lot by location.
Step 2: Support the engine (required before loosening mounts)
- If using an engine support bar (specialty), set it across the strut towers and attach the hook/chain to a solid engine lift point, then take up the slack.
- If using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), place a wood block (2x4) on the jack pad, then gently lift under a sturdy flat area of the engine oil pan casting area (light pressure only).
- Use a paint marker to mark mount/bracket positions before removal.
Step 3: Stop here to avoid wrong torque specs
- Different mounts on your Altima use different bolt sizes and torque values.
- Once you tell me which mount(s) you’re replacing, I’ll continue with the exact steps, access panels to remove, and the correct Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for each fastener.
✅ After Repair
- Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
- Start the car and confirm normal idle and no excessive vibration in Park/Drive (foot on brake).
- Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks on acceleration and braking.
- Recheck the mount fasteners for tightness after a short drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $500-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$600 (parts only)
You Save: $380-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Mount replace for these Nissan vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2011 Nissan Altima | Hybrid | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2010 Nissan Altima | Hybrid | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2009 Nissan Altima | Hybrid | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2008 Nissan Altima | Hybrid | Inline 4 2.5L | - |
| 2007 Nissan Altima | Hybrid | Inline 4 2.5L | - |


















