🔧 Tacoma - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Tacoma means supporting the engine, removing the worn rubber/metal mounts, and installing new ones so the engine sits securely again. Bad mounts can cause vibration, clunking when shifting, or excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the engine only by the oil pan with a wide wood block to spread the load; never place a jack directly on the bare oil pan.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands before going under your Tacoma. A floor jack alone is not safe.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working around the starter-side mount area.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine more than necessary. Too much lift can stretch wiring, hoses, exhaust parts, or the fan shroud.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully before starting. The right-side mount area is close to hot exhaust components.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 14mm combination wrench
• 17mm combination wrench
• 19mm combination wrench
• 3-inch socket extension
• 6-inch socket extension
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 2x6 or larger
• Trim clip removal tool
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Left engine mount - Qty: 1
• Right engine mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount nuts and bolts kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Tacoma on level ground, set the parking brake, and place the manual transmission in 1st gear.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Open the hood and let the engine cool completely.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench if your cable clamp uses a 10mm nut. A disconnected battery prevents accidental starter engagement.
• Spray the engine mount nuts and bracket bolts with penetrating oil before removal.
• A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts more easily.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and Secure the Front

• Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front of your Tacoma at the front crossmember.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
• Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands and shake the truck lightly to confirm it is stable.
• Keep the floor jack nearby because you will use it to support the engine.

Step 2: Remove Lower Splash Shields if Equipped

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic clips from the lower splash shield if installed.
• Use a 12mm socket if your skid/splash shield uses 12mm-head bolts.
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in order.
• Tip: Take a photo first.

Step 3: Mark the Mount Positions

• Use a paint marker to mark the current position of each engine mount and bracket.
• This helps you line up the new mounts during installation.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place a wood block 2x6 or larger on the saddle of the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
• Position the wood block under the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack until the wood just contacts the oil pan. Do not lift yet.
• The wood block spreads the pressure so the oil pan is less likely to dent.

Step 5: Loosen the Engine Mount Through-Nuts

• Use a 17mm socket, 17mm combination wrench, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the main engine mount through-nut on one side.
• Repeat on the other side using the same tools.
• Do not fully remove both mounts until the engine is supported.
• Tip: Work one side at a time.

Step 6: Slightly Lift the Engine

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the engine just enough to take weight off the mounts.
• Watch the radiator hoses, fan shroud, wiring, and exhaust as you lift.
• Stop lifting as soon as the mount studs or bolts become loose in their holes.

Step 7: Remove the Left Engine Mount

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to remove the left mount through-nut and bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench, and 6-inch socket extension to remove the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Remove the left engine mount from the bracket area.
• If access is tight, use the 3-inch socket extension to work around the frame and suspension parts.

Step 8: Install the New Left Engine Mount

• Position the new left engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Use a 14mm socket to hand-start the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to hand-start the through-bolt and nut.
• Leave all fasteners slightly loose until both mounts are installed.

Step 9: Remove the Right Engine Mount

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to remove the right mount through-nut and bolt.
• Use a 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench, and 6-inch socket extension to remove the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Carefully remove the right engine mount from the frame and engine bracket area.
• Keep your hands clear of pinch points between the engine and frame.

Step 10: Install the New Right Engine Mount

• Position the new right engine mount in the same orientation as the old one.
• Use a 14mm socket to hand-start the mount-to-bracket fasteners.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm combination wrench to hand-start the through-bolt and nut.
• Keep the fasteners loose until the engine is sitting naturally on both mounts.

Step 11: Lower the Engine onto the Mounts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to slowly lower the engine onto the new mounts.
• Use the paint marker alignment marks to confirm the mount positions are close to original.
• If a bolt hole does not line up, raise or lower the engine slightly with the floor jack. Do not force bolts in crooked.

Step 12: Tighten the Engine Mount Fasteners

• Use a torque wrench 10-150 ft-lb range with the correct socket to tighten the engine mount fasteners.
• Tighten typical mount-to-bracket fasteners to Torque to 52 Nm (38 ft-lbs).
• Tighten typical engine mount through-bolts/nuts to Torque to 87 Nm (64 ft-lbs).
• If your replacement mount hardware includes different instructions, follow the hardware manufacturer’s torque spec.

Step 13: Reinstall Lower Shields

• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall any skid/splash shield bolts if removed.
• Use a trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic clips carefully.
• Tighten small shield bolts snugly. Do not overtighten plastic or thin sheet-metal fasteners.

Step 14: Lower the Truck and Reconnect the Battery

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise the front slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Tacoma to the ground slowly.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm wrench if your clamp uses a 10mm nut.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and let it idle while you watch the engine movement.
• With your foot firmly on the brake, gently shift between neutral and 1st/reverse without driving away. Listen for clunks.
• Check that no hoses, wires, or exhaust parts are stretched or rubbing.
• Take a short low-speed test drive and listen for vibration or knocking.
• After the test drive, recheck the mount fasteners visually for proper seating.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$630 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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