How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 1999-2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (2WD/4WD Guide) (Engine: V8 5.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque-spec notes for Classic vs New Body Style
How to Replace Engine Mounts on a 1999-2007 GMC Sierra 1500 (2WD/4WD Guide) (Engine: V8 5.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools/parts, safety tips, and torque-spec notes for Classic vs New Body Style for 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007
🔧 Sierra 1500 - Engine Mount Replacement
Replacing the engine mounts on your Sierra 1500 involves supporting the engine safely, unbolting the mount(s), and installing new mounts without putting the drivetrain in a bind. The exact mount design, access points, and torque specs vary by the 2007 body style and whether your truck is 2WD or 4WD.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
I need 2 quick details so I can give you the correct mount style + exact torque specs:
- 🛻 Is your Sierra the 2007 Classic body style or the New Body Style?
- 🔩 Is it 2WD or 4WD?
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Do not work under the truck supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
- ⚠️ The engine must be supported before loosening mounts; an unsupported engine can shift suddenly.
- ⚠️ Keep hands clear between the mount and brackets while raising/lowering the engine.
- ⚠️ Let the exhaust cool fully; mount access is near hot components.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is recommended if you’ll be near the starter/positive cable area.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Block of wood (2x6 or similar)
- Socket set (metric and SAE)
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (3/8" and/or 1/2")
- Wrench set (metric and SAE)
- Pry bar
- Penetrating oil
- Trim clip tool
- Work light
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine mount (left/driver side) - Qty: 1
- Engine mount (right/passenger side) - Qty: 1
- Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Raise the front and support the frame with jack stands.
- Spray mount fasteners with penetrating oil and let it soak 10–15 minutes.
- Place a block of wood on the floor jack saddle; the wood spreads the load so you don’t dent the oil pan. (The “oil pan” is the metal pan at the bottom of the engine that holds oil.)
- If working near the starter/positive cable area, disconnect the battery using a 10mm socket (if equipped).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Confirm the correct procedure variant
- Reply with: 2007 Classic or New Body Style, and 2WD or 4WD.
- Once you confirm, I’ll give you the exact fastener locations, required removals (if any), and Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs) specs for your exact setup.
Step 2: (Next) Support the engine safely
- Use floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) with a block of wood (2x6 or similar) under the approved support point for your body style.
- Raise the jack only until it just supports the engine weight; do not lift the truck off the stands.
Step 3: (Next) Remove mount fasteners and brackets
- Use the correct socket set (metric and SAE) and wrench set (metric and SAE) to remove the mount-to-frame and mount-to-engine bracket fasteners.
- Use pry bar only as needed to align holes; avoid tearing the new mount.
Step 4: (Next) Install the new mount(s) and torque
- Install the new mount(s) and start all fasteners by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Use torque wrench (3/8" and/or 1/2") to tighten all fasteners to the correct specs for your variant: Torque to XX Nm (YY ft-lbs).
Step 5: (Next) Reassemble anything removed and recheck alignment
- Use trim clip tool to reinstall any shields/clips without breaking them.
- Lower the jack slowly and verify the engine sits naturally (not twisted).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check for excessive vibration at idle.
- With foot on brake, shift through R and D briefly and listen for clunks.
- Road test and recheck all mount-area fasteners for tightness.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $600-$1,400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$400 (parts only)
You Save: $480-$1,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.
Guide for Engine Mount Kit replace for these GMC vehicles
| Year Make Model | Sub Model | Engine | Body Style |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.2L | - |
| 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2004 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 6.0L | - |
| 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |
| 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 4.8L | - |
| 1999 GMC Sierra 1500 | - | V8 5.3L | - |


















