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2015 Subaru Legacy
2015 Subaru Legacy
2.5i - Flat 4 2.5L
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How To: Subaru Legacy Outback Motor Mount Replacement Step-by-Step

How To: Subaru Legacy Outback Motor Mount Replacement Step-by-Step

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How to Replace Engine Mounts (Left/Right + Pitch Stop) on a 2015 Subaru Legacy

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes

How to Replace Engine Mounts (Left/Right + Pitch Stop) on a 2015 Subaru Legacy

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque spec notes

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šŸ”§ Legacy - Engine Mount Replacement

On your Legacy, the engine is supported by side engine mounts plus a small ā€œpitch stopā€ (a torque damper) that limits engine rocking. Replacing worn mounts reduces vibration, clunking on shifts, and excessive engine movement.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours

Assumption: replacing both side engine mounts + pitch stop; torque specs vary by fastener—use Subaru OEM service-manual specs.


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Support the engine before unbolting any mount; an unsupported engine can drop and break parts.
  • āš ļø Never get under the car with only a jack—use jack stands on solid points.
  • āš ļø Keep hands clear while raising/lowering the engine; move slowly.
  • āš ļø Work on a cold engine; exhaust and radiator parts burn skin.
  • āš ļø If you loosen the pitch stop, the engine may rock—keep the jack supporting it.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs range)
  • Socket set: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
  • Deep socket set: 14mm, 17mm
  • Wrench set: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm
  • Extension set: 3", 6", 12"
  • Universal swivel adapter
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Pry bar (small)
  • Wood block (2x4, 10-14" long)
  • Paint marker
  • Work light

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Right engine mount (passenger side) - Qty: 1
  • Left engine mount (driver side) - Qty: 1
  • Pitch stop mount (torque damper) - Qty: 1
  • Engine mount hardware kit - Qty: 1

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • Open the hood and remove loose items around the engine bay.
  • Raise the front of the car with a floor jack and set it securely on jack stands.
  • Remove the lower engine under cover using a trim clip removal tool (it pops plastic clips without breaking them) and a 12mm socket.
  • Position the floor jack under the engine oil pan with the wood block between the jack and pan to spread the load.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Support the engine

  • Place the wood block on the floor jack pad.
  • Jack up until the wood just contacts the oil pan and lightly supports the engine (do not lift yet).
  • Slow is safe—lift in tiny bumps.

Step 2: Remove the pitch stop (top mount)

  • Locate the pitch stop at the top rear of the engine bay (a short link between the engine and firewall area).
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the two bolts.
  • Remove the pitch stop and set it aside.
  • Install the new pitch stop loosely by hand (do not fully tighten yet).
  • Torque to Subaru service-manual specification.

Step 3: Create access to the right engine mount (passenger side)

  • Remove the air intake snorkel and air cleaner housing as needed using a flathead screwdriver (hose clamps) and 10mm socket (bolts/clips).
  • Unclip any wiring retainers that limit movement using a trim clip removal tool.

Step 4: Loosen the right mount-to-engine and mount-to-crossmember fasteners

  • From above, use a 14mm or 17mm socket (varies by hardware) with extensions to loosen the mount fasteners.
  • From below, use a deep socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount nut(s)/bolt(s) at the front subframe/crossmember.
  • Mark the mount’s position with a paint marker to help alignment during install.

Step 5: Slightly lift the engine to unload the mount

  • Use the floor jack to lift the engine just enough to take weight off the mount (usually 5-15 mm).
  • Watch for stretching hoses, radiator fan clearance, and exhaust flex movement.

Step 6: Remove and replace the right engine mount

  • Remove the loosened mount fasteners using the correct socket and ratchet.
  • Work the mount out; use a small pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
  • Install the new mount in the same orientation and start all fasteners by hand first.
  • Lower/raise the engine slightly with the floor jack to line up holes without forcing bolts.
  • Torque to Subaru service-manual specification using a torque wrench.

Step 7: Create access to the left engine mount (driver side)

  • On the driver side, remove any obstructing ducting/brackets using a 10mm socket and 12mm socket.
  • Move wiring clips aside with a trim clip removal tool so nothing gets pulled tight.

Step 8: Remove and replace the left engine mount

  • Loosen and remove the mount fasteners from above and below using extensions, a universal swivel adapter, and the correct 14mm/17mm sockets.
  • Use the floor jack to slightly adjust engine height so the mount slides out.
  • Install the new mount, start all fasteners by hand, then tighten evenly.
  • Torque to Subaru service-manual specification using a torque wrench.

Step 9: Final-tighten the pitch stop and reassemble

  • With both side mounts secured, re-check the pitch stop alignment and tighten its bolts using a 14mm socket.
  • Torque to Subaru service-manual specification.
  • Reinstall the air box/intake parts using a 10mm socket and flathead screwdriver.
  • Reinstall the lower engine under cover using a 12mm socket and trim clip removal tool.

Step 10: Lower the vehicle

  • Remove the floor jack support from under the engine.
  • Raise the car slightly with the floor jack, remove jack stands, then lower to the ground.

āœ… After Repair

  • Start the engine and let it idle; check for unusual vibration and listen for clunks.
  • With your foot on the brake, shift through R and D; there should be less engine lurch.
  • Test drive gently; re-check for any rattles from the intake or under cover.
  • After a short drive, re-check visible fasteners and ensure no hoses/wires are rubbing.

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $600-$1,200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $420-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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