🔧 Escape - Engine Mount Replacement

Replacing the engine mounts on your Escape involves supporting the engine safely, removing the worn mount, and installing the new mount without letting the engine shift. Bad mounts can cause clunks, vibration at idle, harsh shifting feel, or movement when changing between Drive and Reverse.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never place any part of your body under the engine while it is supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Support the engine with a floor jack and a wide wood block under the oil pan. The wood spreads the load so the pan is not dented.
• ⚠️ Do not lift the engine high. Only raise it enough to take the weight off the mount.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool before working near the exhaust, turbocharger, coolant hoses, and brackets.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before working near the right-side engine mount area.
• ⚠️ Replace one mount at a time so the powertrain stays aligned.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 3/8-inch drive extension set
• 1/2-inch drive extension set
• Torque wrench 10-150 ft-lbs
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Trim clip remover
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Wood block 12-inch minimum
• Work gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Right-side engine mount - Qty: 1
• Transmission mount - Qty: 1
• Rear torque mount - Qty: 1
• Engine mount fastener set - Qty: 1

Tip: Replace the failed mount first. Replace all three if vibration remains.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Escape on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🔋 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
• 🧰 A torque wrench tightens bolts accurately. This matters because loose mounts clunk and over-tightened bolts can damage threads.
• 🧰 A breaker bar is a long-handled ratchet used to loosen tight bolts more easily.
• 🧰 A trim clip remover is a small pry tool that removes plastic clips without breaking them.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Open the Hood and Disconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery terminal clamp.
• Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post.
• Use safety glasses and gloves before continuing.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Escape

• Use the floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
• Place jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack available to support the engine.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Splash Shield

• Use a 7mm or 8mm socket if equipped with small shield screws.
• Use a trim clip remover to remove plastic push clips.
• Lower the splash shield and set it aside.
• Keep clips in a cup.

Step 4: Support the Engine

• Place the wood block on the floor jack saddle.
• Position the wood block under the flat reinforced area of the engine oil pan.
• Raise the jack slowly until it just touches and supports the engine.
• Do not lift the engine yet. Just take a little weight off the mounts.

Step 5: Replace the Right-Side Engine Mount

• The right-side engine mount is near the passenger-side strut tower and timing cover area.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to remove any intake duct or cover blocking access.
• Use a 13mm socket to remove small bracket or ground strap fasteners if they block the mount.
• Use a 15mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the mount-to-body bolts.
• Use an 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-engine bracket nuts or bolts.
• Raise or lower the floor jack slightly until the bolts slide out without binding.
• Remove the old mount from the engine bay.
• Install the new right-side engine mount by hand-starting every bolt first.
• Use the floor jack to gently align the engine if the bolt holes do not line up.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket and tighten mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket and tighten mount-to-engine fasteners to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Start bolts by hand first.

Step 6: Replace the Rear Torque Mount

• The rear torque mount is underneath, between the powertrain and subframe. It limits front-to-back engine movement.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear torque mount bolts.
• Use the floor jack to slightly adjust engine height if the bolts feel tight or stuck from pressure.
• Remove the bolts and pull out the old rear torque mount.
• Install the new rear torque mount in the same direction as the old one.
• Hand-start all bolts before tightening.
• Use a torque wrench with an 18mm socket and tighten the rear torque mount fasteners to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
• Do not force misaligned bolts.

Step 7: Replace the Transmission Mount

• The transmission mount is on the driver-side of the engine bay near the transmission support area.
• Use a 10mm socket to move any air box, battery tray, or wiring retainer that blocks access.
• If the battery tray blocks access, use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to remove the tray fasteners.
• Keep the engine and transmission supported with the floor jack and wood block.
• Use a 15mm or 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the transmission mount-to-body fasteners.
• Use an 18mm socket to loosen the mount-to-transmission bracket fasteners.
• Raise or lower the floor jack slightly until the fasteners slide out smoothly.
• Remove the old transmission mount.
• Install the new transmission mount and hand-start every fastener.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket and tighten transmission mount-to-body fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket and tighten transmission mount-to-transmission fasteners to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall Removed Components

• Use a 10mm socket and 13mm socket to reinstall the battery tray or brackets if removed.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket to reinstall the intake duct or cover if removed.
• Use a trim clip remover and 7mm or 8mm socket to reinstall the lower splash shield.
• Make sure no wiring, hoses, or ground straps are pinched.

Step 9: Lower the Engine Support and Vehicle

• Slowly lower the floor jack from under the engine.
• Use the floor jack to raise the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Escape fully to the ground.

Step 10: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the clamp snugly. Do not over-tighten it.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start the engine and let it idle. The engine should sit steady with less vibration.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift from Park to Reverse, then Drive. Listen for clunks.
• ✅ Test drive at low speed first. Check for vibration during takeoff and while stopped in Drive.
• ✅ Recheck all visible mount fasteners after the first short drive.
• ✅ If the idle relearns after battery disconnect, let the engine idle for a few minutes with accessories off.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,250 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$450 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$800 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

🔧 Escape - Front Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

On your Escape, the front suspension bushings are built into the lower control arms. The beginner-friendly repair is to replace the complete lower control arm assembly instead of pressing bushings in and out, because pressing bushings requires a hydraulic press and can damage the arm if done incorrectly.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never work under your Escape with only a floor jack holding it up. Always use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Suspension parts are under load. Keep hands clear while lowering or raising the control arm.
• ⚠️ Do not hammer directly on the ball joint stud threads. Damaged threads can make the joint unsafe.
• ⚠️ Final tightening of control arm bushing bolts should be done at normal ride height to prevent early bushing failure.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 15mm socket
• 18mm socket
• 24mm socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive ratchet
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive extension set
• Torque wrench 20-250 ft-lbs
• Ball joint separator (specialty)
• Pry bar 18-inch
• Dead blow hammer 2-lb
• Paint marker
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Work gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front lower control arm assembly - Driver side - Qty: 1
• Front lower control arm assembly - Passenger side - Qty: 1
• Lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut - Qty: 2
• Front lower control arm mounting bolt set - Qty: 1

Replace in pairs: For even handling and braking stability, replace both front lower control arms together.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Escape on level ground.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• 🅿️ Set the parking brake.
• 🔩 Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🧰 A ball joint separator is a tool that separates the steering knuckle from the ball joint without damaging the parts.
• 🧰 A breaker bar is a long-handled wrench used to loosen tight bolts.
• 🧰 A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount so they are secure without being over-tightened.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each front wheel lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Escape

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Escape at the front subframe lift point.
• Place jack stands under the front support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Lightly shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Control Arm Position

• Use a paint marker to mark the current position of the control arm mounting bolts and washers.
• This helps you get the new arm close enough to drive safely to an alignment shop.
• Alignment is still required.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Ball Joint Pinch Bolt

• Locate the lower ball joint where the control arm connects to the steering knuckle.
• Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the pinch bolt nut.
• Use a 15mm socket or 18mm socket to remove the pinch bolt from the knuckle.
• If the bolt is stuck, use a dead blow hammer to gently tap it out.

Step 6: Separate the Ball Joint from the Knuckle

• Use a ball joint separator to separate the lower ball joint stud from the steering knuckle.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch to gently press the control arm downward if needed.
• Do not pull hard on the axle shaft or brake hose.
• Move slowly and watch hoses.

Step 7: Support the Control Arm

• Place the floor jack lightly under the outer end of the control arm.
• Raise the jack just enough to support the arm.
• This prevents the arm from dropping suddenly when the bolts are removed.

Step 8: Remove the Control Arm Mounting Bolts

• Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the front control arm bushing bolt.
• Use a 21mm socket or 24mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear control arm bushing bolt.
• Remove the bolts by hand once loose.
• Lower the floor jack slightly and remove the old control arm assembly.

Step 9: Install the New Control Arm

• Position the new lower control arm into the subframe mounting points.
• Install the front and rear control arm bolts by hand first.
• Do not fully tighten the bushing bolts yet.
• Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to line up the holes gently.
• Never force bolts in crooked.

Step 10: Reconnect the Ball Joint

• Use the floor jack to raise the outer end of the control arm until the ball joint stud slides into the steering knuckle.
• Install the new lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut by hand.
• Use a torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the lower ball joint pinch bolt to Torque to 63 Nm (46 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Preload the Suspension Before Final Tightening

• Use the floor jack under the outer control arm to raise it until the arm is near normal ride height.
• Normal ride height means the suspension is sitting close to where it sits when the wheels are on the ground.
• This prevents twisting the rubber bushings at rest.

Step 12: Tighten the Control Arm Bushing Bolts

• Use a torque wrench with an 18mm socket to tighten the front control arm bushing bolt to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
• Use a torque wrench with a 21mm socket or 24mm socket to tighten the rear control arm bushing bolt to Torque to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
• Lower the floor jack from the control arm slowly.

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 5 through 12 on the opposite front lower control arm.
• Use the same tools and torque specs.
• Compare both sides before reinstalling the wheels.

Step 14: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Install each wheel by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket and ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• A star pattern means tightening across the wheel instead of going in a circle.

Step 15: Lower the Escape and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Escape fully to the ground.
• Use a torque wrench with a 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Get a professional four-wheel alignment before normal driving.
• ✅ Drive slowly at first and listen for clunks, rubbing, or pulling.
• ✅ Recheck the wheel lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the vehicle pulls, do not delay the alignment.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking and sharp turns until the alignment is completed.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,100 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $470-$680 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours plus alignment time.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.