🔧 Highlander - Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

This guide covers replacing both front wheel bearing/hub assemblies on your Highlander. The front wheel bearing is built into a bolt-on hub assembly, so the repair is easier than press-in bearing designs, but it still requires safely lifting the vehicle and removing brake and axle-related hardware.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Highlander with jack stands before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a jack alone. A jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands safely hold it up.
• ⚠️ The axle nut is very tight. Loosen it before raising the vehicle.
• ⚠️ Do not let the brake caliper hang by the rubber brake hose. Support it with wire or a bungee cord.
• ⚠️ Avoid pulling the CV axle outward too far. The CV axle is the shaft that transfers power from the transmission to the wheel.
• ⚠️ If equipped with ABS wiring at the hub, handle the sensor wire gently and route it exactly like the original.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 30mm axle nut socket
• 17mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• 1/2-inch breaker bar
• 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 220 ft-lbs
• 3/8-inch torque wrench rated to 100 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Hammer
• Brass punch
• Hub puller kit (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front wheel bearing and hub assembly - Qty: 2
• Front axle nut - Qty: 2
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1 small tube

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Highlander on level ground and shift to Park.
• Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Plan to replace both front hub assemblies as a pair for even wear and noise prevention.
• Keep the left and right brake parts separated so everything goes back on the same side.
• No infotainment menu or scan-tool setup is needed for this repair.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Front Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each front lug nut about one turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen first, lift second.

Step 2: Loosen the Axle Nuts

• Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the center cap if it blocks access to the axle nut.
• If the axle nut is staked, use the flathead screwdriver and hammer to lift the staked edge out of the axle groove. “Staked” means the nut is dented into a groove to keep it from backing off.
• Use the 30mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen the axle nut on each front wheel.
• Do not fully remove the axle nuts until the vehicle is safely supported.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Front of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper front support points.
• Lower your Highlander gently onto the jack stands.
• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum as a light backup support, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 4: Remove Both Front Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both front wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 5: Remove the Brake Caliper on One Side

• Start on one side only so the other side can be used as a visual reference.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the two brake caliper slide pin bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket.
• Use the bungee cord to hang the caliper from the strut spring.
• Do not stretch or twist the brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Brake Caliper Bracket

• Use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
• Remove the caliper bracket and set it aside.
• During installation, tighten the caliper bracket bolts to Torque to 79 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 7: Remove the Brake Rotor

• Pull the rotor straight off by hand.
• If it is stuck, tap around the rotor hat with the hammer.
• Do not hit the wheel studs directly.
• Rust may hold it tight.

Step 8: Remove the Axle Nut

• Use the 30mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the axle nut fully.
• Discard the old axle nut. It should not be reused.

Step 9: Free the CV Axle from the Hub

• Thread the old axle nut back on a few turns by hand to protect the axle threads.
• Use the brass punch and hammer to tap the axle inward until it moves freely in the hub splines.
• A spline is a set of small ridges that lock the axle and hub together.
• Remove the old axle nut again once the axle moves.

Step 10: Disconnect the ABS Wire if Attached to the Hub

• Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove any ABS wire bracket bolts attached near the hub.
• Use the needle-nose pliers to release wire clips carefully.
• Do not pull on the wire itself.
• Match the original routing during reassembly.

Step 11: Remove the Hub Assembly Bolts

• From the back side of the steering knuckle, use the 17mm socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to remove the four hub mounting bolts.
• The steering knuckle is the metal suspension part the hub bolts into.
• Support the hub with one hand as the last bolt comes out.

Step 12: Remove the Old Hub Assembly

• Pull the hub assembly straight out of the steering knuckle.
• If it is stuck from rust, install the hub puller kit (specialty) and tighten it evenly until the hub breaks free.
• Use the hammer only on the old hub, not on the steering knuckle.
• Patience prevents broken parts.

Step 13: Clean the Mounting Surface

• Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris from the steering knuckle bore and flat mounting surface.
• Use brake cleaner to rinse away loose debris.
• Apply a very thin layer of anti-seize compound to the outer hub mounting surface.
• Keep anti-seize off the wheel studs, brake rotor face, and axle threads.

Step 14: Install the New Hub Assembly

• Slide the new front wheel bearing and hub assembly into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Make sure the CV axle splines pass cleanly through the center of the hub.
• Start all four hub mounting bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the hub mounting bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
• Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Reconnect the ABS Wire

• Use the needle-nose pliers to clip the ABS wire back into its original retainers.
• Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to reinstall any ABS wire bracket bolts.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• Check that the wire cannot rub the tire, rotor, or axle.

Step 16: Install the New Axle Nut

• Thread the new front axle nut on by hand.
• Use the 30mm axle nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 220 ft-lbs to tighten the axle nut.
• Torque to 294 Nm (217 ft-lbs).
• Use the flathead screwdriver and hammer to stake the nut into the axle groove if the replacement nut is a staked design.

Step 17: Reinstall the Brake Rotor

• Slide the rotor back onto the hub by hand.
• Use brake cleaner to clean fingerprints from the rotor braking surface.
• Hold the rotor flush against the hub while installing the caliper bracket.

Step 18: Reinstall the Caliper Bracket

• Position the caliper bracket over the rotor.
• Start both bracket bolts by hand.
• Use the 17mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the bolts.
• Torque to 79 Nm (58 ft-lbs).

Step 19: Reinstall the Brake Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord and slide the caliper back over the brake pads and bracket.
• Start the two slide pin bolts by hand.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the bolts.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 20: Repeat on the Other Front Side

• Repeat Steps 5 through 19 on the opposite front wheel bearing and hub assembly.
• Use the same tools and torque specs for the second side.
• Compare routing and part position with the completed side if needed.

Step 21: Reinstall the Front Wheels

• Place each wheel back onto the hub.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 22: Lower and Torque the Wheels

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift your Highlander slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench rated to 220 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Pump the brake pedal several times before driving. This seats the brake calipers back into position.
• ✅ Start slowly and listen for grinding, clicking, or scraping.
• ✅ Check that the ABS warning light stays off after the vehicle moves.
• ✅ Recheck the lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
• ✅ If the steering wheel shakes, the vehicle pulls, or a humming noise remains, inspect tires, rear bearings, and alignment next.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $650-$1,050 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $220-$420 (parts only)

You Save: $430-$630 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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