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2013 Honda Accord
2013 Honda Accord
Sport - Inline 4 2.4L
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How to Replace Upstream O2 Sensor 2013-2017 Honda Accord

How to Replace Upstream O2 Sensor 2013-2017 Honda Accord

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Floor Jack
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How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor on a 2013 Honda Accord (Upstream & Downstream)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 33 ft-lbs torque spec

How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor on a 2013 Honda Accord (Upstream & Downstream)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and 33 ft-lbs torque spec

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🔧 Accord - Oxygen Sensor Replacement

Your Accord has more than one oxygen sensor: an upstream sensor (also called an air/fuel ratio sensor) before the catalytic converter, and a downstream sensor after the catalytic converter. The replacement steps are similar, but the sensor location and access are different.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 0.7-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a cold exhaust—hot parts can burn you.
  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep the sensor wires away from the exhaust when reinstalling.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required, but it’s safer to unplug sensors with the key OFF.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive extension set
  • 22mm oxygen sensor socket (specialty)
  • 22mm box-end wrench
  • Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • Trim clip tool
  • Penetrating oil

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Upstream air/fuel ratio sensor (Sensor 1) - Qty: 1
  • Downstream oxygen sensor (Sensor 2) - Qty: 1
  • Replacement exhaust heat shield clips - Qty: 2-6

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Let the engine and exhaust cool fully (at least 1 hour).
  • Spray penetrating oil on the sensor threads and let it soak 10–15 minutes.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Confirm which oxygen sensor you’re replacing

  • Tell me which one: Upstream (Sensor 1, before the catalytic converter) or Downstream (Sensor 2, after the catalytic converter).
  • If you have a code, share it (example: P0134, P0420). This helps ensure you replace the correct sensor.

Step 2: Safely raise and support the car (for best access)

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the front center jack point.
  • Set the car onto jack stands at the left and right pinch welds.
  • Give the car a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Locate the sensor and unplug the connector

  • Use safety glasses and a light source so you can see the harness routing clearly.
  • Follow the sensor wire to its electrical connector.
  • Release the connector lock and unplug it by hand; use a trim clip tool if the harness is clipped to a bracket.
  • Tip: Don’t pull on the wires.

Step 4: Remove the oxygen sensor

  • Fit a 22mm oxygen sensor socket (specialty) over the sensor (the slot allows the wire to pass through).
  • Use a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension to break it loose and unthread it.
  • If space is tight, use a 22mm box-end wrench to crack it loose first.

Step 5: Install the new sensor

  • Thread the new sensor in by hand first to avoid cross-threading (damaging threads).
  • Tighten using the 22mm oxygen sensor socket (specialty) and torque wrench.
  • Torque to 44 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
  • Route the harness the same way as the original so it can’t touch the exhaust.

Step 6: Reconnect and secure the wiring

  • Plug the connector in until it clicks.
  • Reinstall any harness clips using the trim clip tool to guide them in without breaking them.

Step 7: Lower the car

  • Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, and set the car back down.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and listen for exhaust leaks (a “ticking” sound near the sensor area).
  • If the check engine light was on, clear codes with a scan tool and verify they don’t return after a short drive.
  • Recheck that the sensor wire is not near any hot exhaust surfaces.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$220 (parts only)

You Save: $150-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.5 hours.


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