🔧 WRX - Outer Tie Rod End Replacement

The outer tie rod end connects your steering rack to the steering knuckle, and a worn one can cause clunking, looseness, or uneven tire wear. You’ll remove the old tie rod end, install the new one to the same length, then get an alignment to protect your tires.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (one side)

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• Support your WRX on jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• Keep fingers clear when separating the tie rod end from the knuckle (it can pop loose suddenly).
• After replacement, drive gently to an alignment shop ASAP; toe setting will likely change.
• Battery disconnect is not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Side cutters
• 17mm socket
• 12" adjustable wrench
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Penetrating oil
• Paint marker
• Tape measure
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Outer tie rod end - Qty: 1
• Cotter pin (tie rod end) - Qty: 1
• Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the car (do not remove yet).
• Spray penetrating oil on the tie rod end castle nut area and the jam nut threads.
• Plan for an alignment after the repair, even if you “count turns.”

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and remove the front wheel

• Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Lift with the floor jack and support with jack stands under the proper front support points.
• Remove the lug nuts with the 19mm socket and take the wheel off.

Step 2: Mark the current tie rod end position

• Use a wire brush to clean the exposed threads near the jam nut.
• Use a paint marker to mark a line across the jam nut and inner tie rod threads.
• Use a tape measure to measure from the jam nut to a fixed point on the tie rod end and write it down.
• These marks help keep alignment close.

Step 3: Loosen the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 12" adjustable wrench and loosen the jam nut using the same 12" adjustable wrench.
• Only “crack it loose” for now; don’t spin it far yet.

Step 4: Remove the cotter pin and castle nut

• Straighten and remove the cotter pin using needle-nose pliers (use side cutters if it breaks).
• Remove the tie rod end castle nut from the knuckle using a 17mm socket.

Step 5: Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle

• Install a tie rod end puller (specialty) over the joint and tighten it until the stud pops free.
• A tie rod end puller is a clamp tool that presses the stud out without hammering.
• If the stud spins, apply upward pressure on the joint while turning the nut area with the 17mm socket (if needed).

Step 6: Remove the old tie rod end (count turns)

• Spin the tie rod end off by hand, counting the exact number of turns until it comes off.
• Write the number down (example: 17.5 turns).

Step 7: Install the new tie rod end

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize compound to the inner tie rod threads.
• Thread the new tie rod end on the same number of turns you counted.
• Line up your paint marker marks as closely as possible.

Step 8: Attach the tie rod end to the knuckle and torque

• Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle by hand.
• Install the castle nut using a 17mm socket.
• Torque to 37 Nm (27 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.
• If the cotter pin hole does not line up, tighten slightly until it aligns (do not loosen to align).
• Install a new cotter pin using needle-nose pliers and bend the ends over.

Step 9: Tighten the jam nut

• Hold the tie rod end with a 12" adjustable wrench.
• Tighten the jam nut with the 12" adjustable wrench.
• Torque to 70 Nm (52 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench where possible.

Step 10: Reinstall the wheel

• Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) with a torque wrench using the 19mm socket, in a star pattern.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the car and turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm smooth movement and no binding.
• Road test at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm the steering wheel feels stable.
• Get a front alignment (toe set) as soon as possible to prevent tire wear.
• Recheck the cotter pin and jam nut area after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $200-$450 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $30-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $170-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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