How to Replace All Radiator Hoses on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Upper & Lower)
Step-by-step hose replacement with required tools/parts, coolant refill & bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024
How to Replace All Radiator Hoses on a 2018 Nissan Armada (Upper & Lower)
Step-by-step hose replacement with required tools/parts, coolant refill & bleeding tips, and leak checks for 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024
đź”§ Armada - Radiator Hose Replacement (All Hoses)
You’ll be draining some coolant, removing the old radiator hoses, and installing new ones with fresh clamps. This is important because aged hoses can swell, crack, or leak—leading to overheating and engine damage.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never open the radiator cap on a hot engine; coolant can spray and burn you.
- ⚠️ Support the SUV with jack stands before working underneath; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Keep coolant away from kids and pets; it’s toxic and can taste sweet.
- ⚠️ Clean spills immediately; coolant is slippery.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Drain pan (at least 3-gallon)
- Funnel
- Hose clamp pliers
- Channel-lock pliers
- Pick tool
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive extension (6")
- Trim clip removal tool
- Shop rags
- Flashlight
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamp set - Qty: 1
- Engine coolant (Nissan Long Life / equivalent) - Qty: 2-3 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 2-3 gallons
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Let the engine cool completely (ideally overnight).
- Set the HVAC to HOT before you start the bleeding process later (this helps coolant flow through the heater core).
- Plan for coolant disposal: capture everything in a drain pan and take it to a recycling center/parts store.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and access the hoses
- Open the hood and use your 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any bolts holding the plastic engine cover (if equipped).
- Lift the cover off and set it aside.
- Use a flashlight to locate the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to engine) and lower radiator hose (bottom of radiator to engine).
Step 2: Raise the front (for lower hose access)
- Place wheel chocks.
- Use the floor jack to lift the front at the correct jacking point.
- Set the SUV on jack stands and gently shake it to confirm it’s stable.
Step 3: Drain coolant to below hose level
- Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Slowly loosen the radiator cap by hand only after confirming the engine is cold; use shop rags for grip.
- Open the radiator drain (if equipped) using a flat-blade screwdriver (some are hand-turn; use gentle force).
- Let coolant drain until the level is below the lower hose connection.
- Tip: Drain slowly to reduce splashing.
Step 4: Remove the upper radiator hose
- Place shop rags under the hose ends to catch leftover coolant.
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamp and slide it back on the hose.
- Twist the hose by hand to break it free. If it’s stuck, carefully work the edge with a pick tool (do not gouge the plastic/metal fitting).
- Pull the hose off the radiator neck, then off the engine side, and drain it into the drain pan.
- Tip: Twisting breaks the seal safely.
Step 5: Remove the lower radiator hose
- Move the drain pan under the lower hose area (more coolant will spill here).
- If a splash shield blocks access, remove it using a trim clip removal tool and 10mm socket.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamps back on both ends.
- Twist and remove the hose. Use a pick tool carefully only if needed.
Step 6: Prep fittings and compare parts
- Use shop rags to wipe the radiator necks and engine fittings clean.
- Compare the new hoses to the old ones for matching bends and length.
- Install new clamps onto the new hoses before you put them on the vehicle.
Step 7: Install the new lower radiator hose
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator fitting by hand.
- Push the other end fully onto the engine fitting by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to position the clamps in the same location as original (behind the bead/lip on the fitting).
- If you removed a splash shield, reinstall it using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
Step 8: Install the new upper radiator hose
- Push the hose fully onto the radiator neck and engine fitting by hand.
- Use hose clamp pliers to move the clamps into position behind the bead/lip.
- Double-check the hose is not rubbing sharp edges or a belt.
Step 9: Refill coolant
- Close the radiator drain snugly using a flat-blade screwdriver (do not overtighten).
- Mix coolant with distilled water to a 50/50 blend unless your coolant is pre-mixed.
- Use a funnel to fill the radiator slowly.
- Fill the coolant reservoir to the correct level line.
Step 10: Bleed air from the cooling system (warm-up and top off)
- Start the engine and set the heater to HOT with the fan on low.
- Let the engine idle and watch the coolant level at the radiator (cap off at first if safe, or follow your comfort level).
- As the thermostat opens, the level may drop—add more 50/50 coolant using the funnel.
- Once bubbles reduce and the level stabilizes, install the radiator cap fully.
- Let it reach normal operating temperature while watching for leaks with a flashlight.
- Tip: Never rev a cold engine hard.
Step 11: Lower the vehicle and recheck
- Shut the engine off and let it cool.
- Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower to the ground.
- After a full cool-down, recheck the reservoir level and top off if needed using the funnel.
âś… After Repair
- Check for leaks at every hose end while idling and again after a short test drive.
- Verify the heater blows hot air (this helps confirm coolant flow through the heater core).
- Watch the temperature gauge on your first few drives; shut down immediately if it climbs hotter than normal.
- Recheck coolant level the next morning (cold engine) and top off the reservoir if needed.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$220 (parts only)
You Save: $220-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















