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2013 Toyota Highlander
2013 Toyota Highlander
Plus - V6 3.5L
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How to QUICKLY replace mirror on 2013 - 2019 Toyota Highlander for 32 dollars !!!

How to QUICKLY replace mirror on 2013 - 2019 Toyota Highlander for 32 dollars !!!

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Tools & Fluids

10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
6"
6"
Extension
1/4
1/4
Torque Wrench
Phillips
Phillips
Screwdriver
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How to Replace a Side View Mirror on a 2013 Toyota Highlander (Driver or Passenger)

Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, required tools/parts, and 65 in-lb torque spec

How to Replace a Side View Mirror on a 2013 Toyota Highlander (Driver or Passenger)

Step-by-step door panel removal, wiring disconnect, required tools/parts, and 65 in-lb torque spec

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

đź”§ Highlander - Side View Mirror Replacement

Replacing a side view mirror on your Highlander is mostly a trim-panel and wiring job: remove the inner door trim, unplug the mirror, remove the mounting nuts, then install the new mirror. The key is taking your time with the plastic clips so nothing cracks.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours (per side)


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface, key off, and keep the window fully up.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring to reduce short-circuit risk.
  • ⚠️ Don’t pull on wires—release electrical connectors by their locking tabs.
  • ⚠️ Use plastic trim tools to avoid damaging interior panels and paint.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" extension (1/4")
  • Torque wrench (in-lb capable)
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim removal tool set (plastic)
  • Pick tool
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Painter’s tape
  • Magnetic pickup tool
  • Shop light
  • Gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Side view mirror assembly (LH or RH, correct options) - Qty: 1
  • Door trim panel clips (Toyota-style) - Qty: 5-10
  • Butyl tape (water shield adhesive) - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on level ground and turn the ignition OFF.
  • Lower the window slightly, then raise it fully (this gives you room to grip the door panel safely).
  • Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
  • Put painter’s tape along the mirror base/door edge to protect paint.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the inner sail panel (mirror corner cover)

  • Use a trim removal tool set (plastic) to pry off the small triangular plastic cover at the top-front of the door (inside corner by the mirror).
  • If it has a small clip, use a pick tool to help release it gently. Pry slowly to avoid bending it.

Step 2: Remove the door handle bezel and window switch panel

  • Use a trim removal tool set (plastic) to pop off the door handle bezel (the trim around the interior door handle).
  • Use a trim removal tool set (plastic) to lift the power window switch panel up from the armrest.
  • Unplug the switch connectors by pressing the tabs (use a pick tool if needed).

Step 3: Remove door panel screws

  • Remove the screw(s) behind the interior handle area using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
  • Remove the screw(s) in/near the armrest pull pocket using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
  • Place screws in a small container so they don’t get lost.

Step 4: Release the door panel clips and lift the panel off

  • Slide a trim removal tool set (plastic) under the lower edge of the door panel and pop the plastic clips loose, working around the sides.
  • Once clips are free, lift the door panel straight up to unhook it from the top ledge by the window.
  • Support the panel and disconnect any remaining electrical plugs (use needle-nose pliers only if needed for stubborn tabs).

Step 5: Peel back the water shield (vapor barrier)

  • Behind the door panel is a plastic sheet stuck on with sticky butyl.
  • Peel it back only as much as needed near the mirror area, using a trim removal tool set (plastic).
  • If the adhesive won’t stick later, you’ll replace/augment it with butyl tape.

Step 6: Unplug the mirror connector

  • Find the mirror wiring connector near the top-front of the door.
  • Press the lock tab and unplug it (use a pick tool to assist—don’t yank the wires).

Step 7: Remove the mirror mounting nuts

  • Support the mirror from the outside with one hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket with a 6" extension (1/4") and 1/4" ratchet to remove the three mirror nuts.
  • Use a magnetic pickup tool in case a nut drops inside the door.

Step 8: Remove the old mirror and prep the mounting surface

  • Feed the mirror wiring through the hole and remove the mirror from the door.
  • Wipe the mounting surface clean (especially where the mirror gasket seals).
  • Confirm the replacement mirror matches: connector shape, number of pins, and features (power/heated/turn signal if equipped).

Step 9: Install the new mirror

  • Route the wiring through the door hole and seat the mirror flush against the door.
  • Hand-thread all three nuts first (prevents cross-threading).
  • Tighten with a 10mm socket, then final tighten with a torque wrench (in-lb capable): Torque to 7.4 Nm (65 in-lb).

Step 10: Reconnect wiring and re-seal the water shield

  • Plug the mirror connector back in until it clicks.
  • Press the plastic water shield back into the butyl.
  • If it won’t stick, apply butyl tape and press firmly around the edges.

Step 11: Reinstall the door panel

  • Reconnect all electrical connectors (window switch, courtesy light if equipped).
  • Hang the door panel on the top ledge first, then press the clips in around the perimeter using your palms.
  • Reinstall screws with a Phillips screwdriver #2 (snug—don’t overtighten into plastic).
  • Reinstall the window switch panel and handle bezel by snapping them back in place.
  • Reinstall the inner sail panel by pressing it back onto its clips.

Step 12: Reconnect the battery

  • Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

âś… After Repair

  • Test mirror movement (up/down/left/right) and verify it doesn’t wobble at the base.
  • If equipped, test mirror heat and turn signal/marker light.
  • Confirm the window and door lock switch work correctly.
  • If the window auto function acts odd after battery disconnect, cycle the window fully down and fully up using the driver switch.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$650 (parts + labor, depends on paint/options)

DIY Cost: $80-$350 (parts only, depends on options)

You Save: $170-$300+ by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


Quick check (so you get the exact right mirror): Is your mirror heated and/or does it have an integrated turn signal in the mirror glass/housing?

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