🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

The rear window regulator is the cable-and-rail assembly that moves the glass up and down. When it fails, the window may drop into the door, move crooked, or stop moving even if you hear the motor.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours (per door)

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Keep fingers clear of the window tracks and regulator cables.
• ⚠️ Support the glass with tape before unbolting it, or it can fall suddenly.
• ⚠️ Disconnect the battery negative cable before unplugging door wiring to prevent shorts.
• ⚠️ Don’t tear the water shield (plastic barrier); it prevents water leaks into the cabin.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Work gloves
• Trim removal tool set (plastic)
• Phillips screwdriver
• Torx T20 driver
• Torx T30 driver
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 1/4" ratchet
• 3" extension
• Painter’s tape (2" wide)
• Magnetic pickup tool
• Torque wrench (inch-lb, 20–200 in-lb range)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly (Left or Right, match your door) - Qty: 1
• Rear window regulator motor (only if not included / if your motor is bad) - Qty: 1
• Door trim panel clips - Qty: 1 set
• Water shield butyl seal tape - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and open the rear door you’re working on.
• Turn the ignition OFF and remove the key/fob from the vehicle.
• Disconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Have painter’s tape ready to hold the glass in the fully-up position.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

• Use a trim removal tool set (plastic) to gently pry up the switch panel/armrest trim.
• Unplug the window switch connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.
• Remove the door pull/armrest screws using a 7mm socket.
• Remove any remaining trim screws using a Torx T20 driver (locations vary by panel style).
• Use the trim removal tool set (plastic) to pop the panel clips free around the edges.
• Lift the panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge.
• Tip: Pull near each clip to avoid cracking panel.

Step 2: Peel back the water shield (plastic barrier)

• Carefully peel the water shield back by hand.
• If the sticky seal (butyl) stretches, use the trim removal tool set (plastic) to separate it slowly.
• Do not fully remove it unless necessary—just create enough access to the regulator and glass clamps.

Step 3: Position and secure the window glass

• Reconnect the window switch temporarily and turn ignition ON only if needed to move the glass into position.
• Move the glass so the glass-to-regulator clamp bolts are visible through the door access holes.
• Turn ignition OFF again and unplug the window switch.
• Use painter’s tape (2" wide) across the top of the door frame to hold the glass fully up.
• If the glass is already dropped, lift it by hand carefully and tape it up.

Step 4: Unbolt the glass from the regulator

• Loosen and remove the glass clamp bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lb) during reassembly.
• Confirm the glass is still securely held by the tape before letting go.

Step 5: Remove the regulator and (if needed) the motor

• Unplug the regulator/motor electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight out.
• Remove the regulator mounting bolts using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb) during reassembly.
• Maneuver the regulator out through the large door opening. Use a magnetic pickup tool if a bolt drops inside.
• If your replacement regulator does not include the motor, remove the motor screws using a Torx T30 driver.
• Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) during reassembly.

Step 6: Install the new regulator

• Slide the new regulator into the door through the opening and align it to the mounting points.
• Hand-start all bolts, then tighten using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lb).
• Plug in the regulator/motor connector until it clicks.

Step 7: Attach the glass to the regulator and test

• Lower the regulator carrier/clamps into position (plug the switch in temporarily if you need to move it).
• Set the glass into the clamps and install the clamp bolts using a 10mm socket.
• Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lb).
• Reconnect the switch and reconnect the battery using a 10mm socket.
• Cycle the window up/down while watching for smooth travel and straight alignment.
• Remove the painter’s tape (2" wide) only after you confirm the glass is secure.

Step 8: Reinstall the water shield and door panel

• Press the water shield back into the butyl seal by hand. Add water shield butyl seal tape if it won’t reseal.
• Hang the door panel on the top ledge first, then press the clips in around the edges.
• Reinstall screws using a 7mm socket and Torx T20 driver as removed.
• Reconnect the switch connector and snap the trim pieces back in using a trim removal tool set (plastic) if needed.

---

✅ After Repair

• Test the rear window from both the rear door switch and the driver master switch.
• If auto-up/down acts weird: with the door closed, run the window fully down, then fully up, holding the switch for 2 seconds at each end.
• Check for wind noise or water leaks after the next car wash/rain (water shield must be sealed).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor, per rear door)

DIY Cost: $120-$350 (parts only, per rear door)

You Save: $230-$400 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.