Howtoo Logo
2011 Toyota Camry
2011 Toyota Camry
Hybrid - Inline 4 2.4L
Bryan specialist avatar

Have a Question? Ask a Specialist

Here is everything needed for this repair

See what I can do

Make Money

With HowToo

OnOff

Here is just the beginning of what I can do!

Select one to see me in action

Vehicle Features

Image Vehicle Features

ā€œHow do I connect my phone to my stereo?ā€

Vehicle Information

Image Vehicle Information

ā€œWhat is my horsepower and torqueā€

Image Recognition

Image Image Recognition

ā€œWhat is this warning light on my dash?ā€

Troubleshooting

Image Troubleshooting

ā€œI have a P0300 engine codeā€

Vehicle Recognition

Image Vehicle Recognition

ā€œWhat vehicle is this?ā€

Find shops near you

Image Find shops near you

ā€œFind a shop to do this repairā€

Vehicle Talk

Image Vehicle Talk

ā€œWhat’s your favorite vehicle of all time?ā€

How to Replace Rear Power Window Regulator 07-11 Toyota Camry

How to Replace Rear Power Window Regulator 07-11 Toyota Camry

Suggested Parts

See all parts background
See All Parts

Tools & Fluids

Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Panel
Panel
Removal Tool
Body Clip
Body Clip
Pliers
Phillips
Phillips
Screwdriver
See all parts background
See All Tools

How to Replace a Rear Door Window Regulator on a 2011 Toyota Camry

Step-by-step rear window regulator swap with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Replace a Rear Door Window Regulator on a 2011 Toyota Camry

Step-by-step rear window regulator swap with tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs

Orion Logo White
Orion Logo White

šŸ”§ Camry - Rear Door Window Regulator Replacement

A rear window regulator is the mechanism that moves the glass up and down. Replacement usually means removing the rear door panel, unbolting the regulator/motor assembly, and transferring the glass back onto the new regulator.

Before I tailor the parts list: which rear door is it (left/rear driver side or right/rear passenger side)?

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours


āš ļø Safety & Precautions

  • āš ļø Disconnect the 12V battery negative cable to prevent the window moving while your hands are inside the door.
  • āš ļø Support the window glass with tape before unbolting it, or it can drop and shatter.
  • āš ļø Keep fingers clear of the regulator arms/scissor/cable path during testing.
  • āš ļø Do not tear the vapor barrier (plastic water shield); it prevents water leaks.

šŸ”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves
  • Trim removal tool set
  • Panel clip pliers
  • Phillips screwdriver
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • 10mm socket
  • 1/4" ratchet
  • 6" socket extension
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Painter’s tape
  • Razor blade or plastic scraper
  • Work light

šŸ”© Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear door window regulator assembly (LH or RH) - Qty: 1
  • Rear door window regulator motor - Qty: 1 (only if regulator is not sold with motor)
  • Door panel clips - Qty: 6-12 (replace any broken)
  • Butyl seal tape for vapor barrier - Qty: 1 (if original butyl won’t reseal)

šŸ“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, ignition OFF, and keep the key/fob away from the car.
  • Open the rear door fully and lower the window if it still moves (it makes access easier).
  • Disconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
  • Have painter’s tape ready to hold the glass at the top of the door frame.

šŸ”Ø Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear door trim panel

  • Use a trim removal tool set to pry up the switch trim (power window switch area) and unplug the connector(s).
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove screws hidden behind small covers (use a flathead screwdriver to gently pop the covers).
  • Use panel clip pliers or a trim removal tool set to pop the panel clips around the perimeter.
  • Lift the door panel straight up to unhook it from the window ledge, then set it aside.
  • Tip: Pull close to each clip to avoid breaking it.

Step 2: Remove the vapor barrier (water shield)

  • Use a razor blade or plastic scraper to separate the butyl (sticky sealant) without ripping the plastic.
  • Peel the vapor barrier back just enough to access the regulator and glass bolts.

Step 3: Secure the window glass

  • If the glass is still attached to the regulator, manually position it so you can access the glass-to-regulator bolts through the door access holes.
  • Apply multiple strips of painter’s tape from the outside of the glass up over the door frame to hold the glass up.

Step 4: Disconnect the window motor connector

  • Find the motor wiring connector inside the door and unplug it by pressing the lock tab (use needle-nose pliers only if needed).

Step 5: Unbolt the glass from the regulator

  • Through the access holes, use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the glass clamp/retainer bolts.
  • Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) during reassembly.
  • Make sure the glass stays taped up and fully supported.

Step 6: Remove the regulator assembly

  • Use a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and 6" socket extension to remove the regulator mounting bolts and motor mounting bolts (if separate).
  • Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs) during reassembly.
  • Carefully maneuver the regulator out through the large door opening.

Step 7: Transfer the motor (only if your new regulator doesn’t include it)

  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet to remove the motor screws/bolts from the old regulator.
  • Install the motor onto the new regulator and tighten evenly.
  • Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).

Step 8: Install the new regulator

  • Position the new regulator inside the door and start all bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten the regulator bolts using a 10mm socket, 1/4" ratchet, and then final-tighten with a torque wrench (inch-pound).
  • Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reattach the glass to the regulator

  • Remove some tape so the glass can lower slightly, then carefully align the glass into the regulator clamps.
  • Install the glass clamp/retainer bolts using a 10mm socket and 1/4" ratchet.
  • Torque to 7.5 Nm (66 in-lbs).

Step 10: Function test before reassembly

  • Reconnect the motor connector by hand.
  • Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Turn ignition ON and run the window up/down a few times, watching that it moves smoothly and stays centered in the channels.
  • Turn ignition OFF and disconnect the 12V negative again using a 10mm socket before putting your hands back inside the door.

Step 11: Reinstall the vapor barrier and door panel

  • Press the vapor barrier back into the original butyl; add butyl seal tape if it won’t stick.
  • Hang the door panel on the top lip first, then press clips in around the edges (replace broken ones).
  • Reinstall screws using a Phillips screwdriver, then snap covers back on.
  • Reconnect the window switch connector(s) and snap the switch trim back in using a trim removal tool set.

āœ… After Repair

  • Reconnect the 12V battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket.
  • Cycle the rear window fully down and fully up 3 times to confirm smooth travel and no popping noises.
  • Check from outside that the glass seals evenly at the top (no gap at the front or rear corner).
  • After the next car wash/rain, check the rear carpet area for moisture (vapor barrier seal check).

šŸ’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $350-$750 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $90-$260 (parts only)

You Save: $260-$490 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-3.0 hours.


šŸŽÆ Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

Parts
Tools
Menu
Videos
Earn