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2019 Ford Escape
2019 Ford Escape
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2013-2019 Ford Escape Lower Radiator Hose

2013-2019 Ford Escape Lower Radiator Hose

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Safety
Safety
Glasses
Nitrile
Nitrile
Gloves
Wheel Chocks
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2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2019 Ford Escape

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, coolant, clamps, and safety tips

How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2019 Ford Escape

Step-by-step cooling system repair guide with tools, coolant, clamps, and safety tips

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Radiator Hose Replacement

Replacing a radiator hose on your Escape means draining some coolant, removing the old hose, installing the new hose, and refilling/bleeding the cooling system. The upper and lower radiator hoses are serviced similarly, but access differs because the lower hose is closer to the bottom of the radiator.

Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Never open the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is hot. Hot coolant is pressurized and can cause severe burns.
  • 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses because coolant is slippery, toxic, and irritating to skin and eyes.
  • 🐾 Keep used coolant away from children and pets. It can be deadly if swallowed.
  • 🚗 Support your Escape with jack stands if raising the front. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Wheel chocks
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Drain pan (2-gallon minimum)
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Hose clamp pliers
  • Slip-joint pliers
  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • Ratchet
  • Plastic trim clip remover
  • Pick tool
  • Funnel
  • Clean shop towels
  • Torque wrench (inch-pound)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Radiator hose - Qty: 1
  • Coolant hose clamps - Qty: 2
  • Motorcraft Yellow coolant or Ford-approved equivalent pre-mixed 50/50 - Qty: 1-2 gallons
  • Radiator drain plug seal - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Escape on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • ❄️ Let the engine cool completely. A safe wait is at least 2-3 hours after driving.
  • 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
  • 🚗 If replacing the lower radiator hose, raise the front with a floor jack and support it with jack stands.
  • 🧪 A hose clamp pliers is a tool that squeezes spring clamps open so you can slide them off the hose.
  • 🔧 A pick tool is a small hooked tool used to gently break a stuck hose loose without prying against plastic fittings.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Let the Cooling System Cool

  • Use your hand near the coolant reservoir, without touching hot parts, to confirm the engine bay feels cool.
  • Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves before opening anything.
  • Slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap by hand to release any remaining pressure, then remove it.
  • Cold engine only.

Step 2: Raise the Front if Needed

  • If replacing the upper hose, you may be able to work from above without lifting your Escape.
  • If replacing the lower hose, use a floor jack to lift the front at the approved front jacking point.
  • Place jack stands under the approved front support points, then gently lower your Escape onto the stands.
  • Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the Lower Shield for Access

  • Use an 8mm socket and ratchet to remove the fasteners from the lower engine splash shield if equipped.
  • Use a plastic trim clip remover to release any plastic push clips.
  • Set the shield and fasteners aside in order so reassembly is easier.

Step 4: Drain Some Coolant

  • Place a drain pan under the radiator drain area.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver or your fingers, depending on drain plug style, to carefully open the radiator drain plug.
  • Drain enough coolant so the level drops below the hose you are replacing.
  • If the drain plug is hard to access, use hose clamp pliers to loosen the lower hose clamp and carefully drain from the hose end instead.
  • Close the radiator drain plug by hand until seated. Do not overtighten plastic parts.

Step 5: Locate the Hose Ends

  • For the upper radiator hose, follow the large hose from the top area of the radiator to the engine coolant outlet.
  • For the lower radiator hose, follow the large hose from the lower radiator outlet toward the engine/water pump area.
  • Use a shop towel to wipe around both hose connections so dirt does not enter the cooling system.

Step 6: Move the Hose Clamps Back

  • Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the spring clamp tabs together.
  • Slide each clamp several inches back onto the hose.
  • If your replacement hose uses worm-drive clamps, use a flat-blade screwdriver or 8mm socket to loosen them.
  • Take a photo first.

Step 7: Remove the Old Hose

  • Use your hand to twist the hose gently at each end to break it loose.
  • If the hose is stuck, use a pick tool carefully between the hose and metal/plastic fitting to loosen the seal.
  • Do not pry hard against plastic radiator or thermostat housing fittings because they can crack.
  • Pull the hose off slowly and aim any remaining coolant into the drain pan.

Step 8: Compare the New Hose

  • Use your hands to place the old and new radiator hoses side by side.
  • Confirm the bends, length, and end diameters match.
  • Transfer any protective sleeve or positioning clip from the old hose if the new hose does not include it.

Step 9: Install the New Hose

  • Use a clean shop towel to wipe the radiator and engine hose necks.
  • Slide the clamps onto the new hose before installing it.
  • Push the hose fully onto each fitting until it seats past the raised bead on the fitting.
  • Use hose clamp pliers to position spring clamps behind the raised bead, in the same location as original.
  • If using worm-drive clamps, tighten them evenly with an 8mm socket or flat-blade screwdriver until snug. Do not crush plastic fittings.
  • Torque worm-drive clamps to 3-5 Nm (27-44 in-lbs) if the clamp manufacturer provides no different spec.

Step 10: Reinstall the Lower Shield

  • Use the plastic trim clip remover by hand to align any push clips.
  • Use an 8mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the lower splash shield fasteners.
  • Tighten the small shield fasteners snug only. Do not overtighten.

Step 11: Refill the Cooling System

  • Use a funnel in the coolant reservoir opening.
  • Add Motorcraft Yellow coolant or Ford-approved equivalent pre-mixed 50/50 until the level reaches the MAX line on the reservoir.
  • Leave the coolant reservoir cap off for the initial air bleed.

Step 12: Bleed Air from the System

  • Start the engine and let it idle with the reservoir cap off.
  • Set the cabin heater to full hot and the blower to low using the climate controls.
  • Watch the coolant level in the reservoir and add coolant with the funnel as the level drops.
  • Let the engine idle until the upper radiator hose becomes warm and the cooling fan cycles on if conditions allow.
  • Install the coolant reservoir cap by hand once the level stabilizes near the MAX line.

Step 13: Check for Leaks

  • Use a flashlight to inspect both hose ends while the engine is running.
  • Look for drips, wetness, or steam around the clamps and fittings.
  • If a leak appears, shut the engine off, let it cool, then reposition the clamp with hose clamp pliers.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Test drive your Escape for 10-15 minutes while watching the temperature gauge.
  • 🌡️ After the engine cools completely, recheck the coolant level and top off to the MAX line if needed.
  • 🔍 Recheck the hose ends the next day for dried coolant marks or wet spots.
  • ♻️ Take used coolant to a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts coolant. Do not pour it on the ground or into drains.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.


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