🔧 Grand Cherokee - Radiator Hose Replacement

This repair replaces a leaking, cracked, swollen, or soft radiator hose on your Grand Cherokee. The 5.7L V8 has an upper radiator hose and a lower radiator hose; the steps are similar, but the lower hose drains more coolant.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Never open the coolant reservoir cap while the engine is hot. Hot coolant can spray out and burn you.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully for at least 2-3 hours before starting.
• ⚠️ Coolant is poisonous to people and pets. Catch all coolant and clean spills right away.
• ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves during the whole job.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan 2-gallon minimum
• Hose clamp pliers
• Flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch
• Slip-joint pliers 10-inch
• Pick tool 90-degree
• Trim clip removal tool
• Funnel with narrow spout
• Clean shop towels
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Ratchet 1/4-inch drive
• Torque wrench inch-pound 1/4-inch drive
• Coolant tester/refractometer (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Upper radiator hose - Qty: 1 if replacing upper hose
• Lower radiator hose - Qty: 1 if replacing lower hose
• Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2 per hose if clamps are damaged, weak, or rusty
• Mopar-compatible OAT coolant 50/50 premix - Qty: 1-2 gallons
• Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon if using concentrated coolant

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Grand Cherokee on level ground and set the parking brake.
• ❄️ Make sure the engine is completely cold.
• 🪣 Place a drain pan under the hose area before loosening anything.
• 🧴 Use only OAT coolant compatible with Jeep/Chrysler vehicles. Do not mix coolant types.
• 📌 A hose clamp is the metal band that squeezes the hose tight onto the radiator or engine fitting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Let the Engine Cool

• Use your hand near the radiator hose to check for heat, but do not touch hot parts.
• Wait until the radiator hose, coolant reservoir, and engine are cool to the touch.
• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Cold engine only.

Step 2: Remove the Coolant Reservoir Cap

• Use your hand to slowly loosen the coolant reservoir cap.
• If you hear pressure escaping, stop and wait until it finishes.
• Remove the cap and place it on a clean shop towel.

Step 3: Place the Drain Pan

• Place the drain pan 2-gallon minimum under the radiator-side end of the hose.
• For the lower hose, expect more coolant to drain.
• Keep clean shop towels nearby for spills.

Step 4: Remove Any Covers Blocking Access

• Use a trim clip removal tool to remove plastic push clips if an air duct or cover is in the way.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with a 1/4-inch drive ratchet to remove small cover bolts if needed.
• Set all clips and bolts aside in order.

Step 5: Loosen the Radiator-Side Clamp

• Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the tabs on the spring clamp.
• Slide the clamp several inches back onto the hose.
• If your hose has a screw-style clamp, use a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch or 8mm socket to loosen it.
• Do not pry hard on the plastic radiator neck.

Step 6: Loosen the Engine-Side Clamp

• Use hose clamp pliers to squeeze the second clamp.
• Slide the clamp back onto the hose.
• If space is tight, use slip-joint pliers 10-inch carefully to reposition the clamp.

Step 7: Break the Old Hose Loose

• Twist the hose by hand to break it free.
• If it is stuck, use a pick tool 90-degree to gently lift the hose edge.
• A pick tool is a small pointed hook used to loosen stuck rubber without cutting it.
• Do not scratch or gouge the radiator neck or engine fitting.
• Twist first, pull second.

Step 8: Remove the Old Hose

• Pull one end of the hose off first, then the other end.
• Keep the hose pointed toward the drain pan 2-gallon minimum because coolant may still be inside.
• Use clean shop towels to wipe any coolant from nearby parts.

Step 9: Clean and Inspect the Fittings

• Use clean shop towels to wipe the radiator neck and engine-side fitting.
• Check for cracks, corrosion, leftover rubber, or rough spots.
• If a plastic neck is cracked, stop and replace the damaged part before installing the new hose.

Step 10: Match the New Hose

• Place the new radiator hose beside the old one.
• Make sure the bends, length, and end sizes match.
• Move good reusable clamps onto the new hose, or install new clamps.

Step 11: Install the New Hose

• Push one end of the new hose fully onto the radiator fitting by hand.
• Push the other end fully onto the engine-side fitting by hand.
• Make sure each hose end sits past the raised bead. The bead is the small raised ring that helps keep the hose sealed.
• Do not use oil or grease on the hose ends.

Step 12: Reposition and Tighten the Clamps

• Use hose clamp pliers to move spring clamps into their original positions.
• Position each clamp just behind the raised bead, not on top of it.
• If using screw-style clamps, tighten with a flathead screwdriver 1/4-inch or 8mm socket.
• Torque screw-style clamps to 3-4 Nm (27-35 in-lbs).
• Do not overtighten clamps on plastic fittings.

Step 13: Reinstall Removed Covers

• Use the trim clip removal tool by hand to reinstall plastic push clips.
• Use an 8mm socket or 10mm socket with the 1/4-inch drive ratchet to reinstall any small bolts.
• Torque small cover fasteners to 5-7 Nm (44-62 in-lbs) if applicable.

Step 14: Refill the Coolant

• Place the funnel with narrow spout into the coolant reservoir.
• Add Mopar-compatible OAT coolant 50/50 premix until the level reaches the cold fill mark.
• If using concentrated coolant, mix it with distilled water before filling.
• Do not overfill the reservoir.

Step 15: Bleed Air from the Cooling System

• Leave the coolant reservoir cap off.
• Start the engine and let it idle.
• Set the heater inside the cabin to full hot and low fan speed.
• Watch the coolant level and add coolant if it drops.
• When air bubbles stop and the level stays steady, reinstall the coolant reservoir cap by hand.

Step 16: Check for Leaks

• Let the engine reach normal operating temperature while watching the temperature gauge.
• Use clean shop towels to dry both hose ends.
• Look closely for fresh coolant around each clamp.
• If the engine starts overheating, shut it off and let it cool completely.

Step 17: Check Coolant Level After Cooling

• After the engine cools fully, check the coolant reservoir again.
• Add Mopar-compatible OAT coolant 50/50 premix if the level is below the cold fill mark.
• Use a coolant tester/refractometer to verify proper coolant strength if you added concentrate.
• A refractometer is a small tester that checks coolant mixture strength using a few drops of coolant.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Take a short 10-15 minute drive and watch the temperature gauge.
• ✅ Park, leave the engine running for one minute, and check for leaks.
• ✅ Let the engine cool completely, then recheck the coolant level.
• ✅ Recheck both hose clamps after the first full warm-up and cool-down cycle.
• ✅ Dispose of old coolant at a recycling center or repair shop. Do not pour it on the ground or into a drain.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$380 per hose (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$120 per hose (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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