How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, air bleeding, and safety tips
How to Replace a Radiator Hose on a 2014-2018 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 (Engine: V6 4.3L)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, coolant refill, air bleeding, and safety tips for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Radiator Hose - Replacement
This job replaces one radiator hose on your Silverado and the clamps that secure it. The key is to drain enough coolant, swap the hose without damaging the necks, and refill the cooling system so it does not trap air.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Let the engine cool completely before opening the cooling system. Hot coolant can spray out and cause burns.
- Use gloves and safety glasses. Coolant is slippery and irritating to skin and eyes.
- Do not remove the pressure cap from a hot radiator or surge tank.
- Keep coolant away from pets and children; it is toxic.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Coolant drain pan
- Pliers
- Hose clamp pliers
- Flat blade screwdriver
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Extension
- Funnel
- Shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Jack stands
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Radiator hose - Qty: 1
- Radiator hose clamps - Qty: 2
- Dex-Cool coolant / antifreeze - Qty: 1-2 gallons
- Distilled water - Qty: 1 gallon
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool fully before starting.
- Raise the front of the truck only if needed for access, then support it securely with jack stands.
- If your hose uses a spring clamp, have the hose clamp pliers ready before you begin.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Relieve pressure and drain coolant
- With the engine cold, slowly remove the coolant surge tank cap.
- Place the coolant drain pan under the radiator drain area.
- Open the drain using pliers or the drain fitting by hand if equipped.
- Drain enough coolant so the hose level is below the hose you are replacing.
Step 2: Remove the old hose
- Use hose clamp pliers to compress the spring clamps, or a flat blade screwdriver for worm-gear clamps.
- Slide the clamps back on the hose.
- Twist the hose gently to break it loose, then pull it off the radiator neck and engine neck.
- If the hose is stuck, use a small pick carefully to lift the edge, but do not gouge the metal neck. Work slowly to avoid breaking fittings.
Step 3: Inspect the fittings
- Use a shop towel to clean both hose necks.
- Check for rust, cracks, or pitting on the radiator and engine outlets.
- If a neck is damaged, replace that part before installing the new hose.
Step 4: Install the new hose
- Compare the new hose to the old one to confirm shape and length.
- Slide the clamps onto the new hose first.
- Push the hose fully onto both fittings until it seats against the stop bead.
- Position the clamps over the bead area, not on the very end of the hose.
- If using worm-gear clamps, tighten with a flat blade screwdriver until snug. Do not over-tighten.
Step 5: Refill the cooling system
- Close the drain fitting.
- Use a funnel to refill with Dex-Cool coolant mixed to the proper ratio if needed.
- Fill the surge tank to the correct mark.
- Leave the cap off for the initial air purge.
Step 6: Bleed air from the system
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Turn the heater to full hot and the fan on low.
- Watch the coolant level and add coolant as it drops.
- Let the engine reach operating temperature and look for stable heat from the vents.
- Inspect the new hose and both ends for leaks.
- Install the cap once the level stabilizes and no more air bubbles appear.
Step 7: Final check
- Road test the truck briefly.
- Recheck the coolant level after the engine cools down.
- Top off only if needed.
✅ After Repair
- Check the hose connection points for seepage after the first drive.
- Verify the temperature gauge stays normal.
- Recheck coolant level the next day when the engine is cold.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$110 (parts only)
You Save: $145-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















