🔧 Escape - Electric Power Steering (EPAS) Steering Gear Replacement

Your Escape does not use a hydraulic power steering pump. It uses EPAS (an electric motor and control module on the steering rack), so “pump replacement” isn’t a thing on this setup.

When power steering fails on your Escape, the usual repair is replacing the EPAS steering gear (steering rack assembly) and then performing a scan-tool steering/angle calibration plus a wheel alignment.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 5 minutes before working near the steering column; this helps prevent accidental airbag/steering system issues.
• ⚠️ Do not let the steering wheel spin freely with the steering shaft disconnected; it can damage the clock spring (the ribbon wiring behind the wheel).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Expect an alignment is required after rack replacement; driving without it can be unsafe and can ruin tires quickly.
• ⚠️ EPAS wiring/connectors: don’t pull on wires; release connector locks first.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range)
• Breaker bar (1/2")
• Socket set (8mm-21mm, 3/8" and 1/2")
• Wrench set (10mm-21mm)
• Torx bit set (T20-T50)
• Pry bar (12"-18")
• Ball joint separator tool (specialty)
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Paint marker
• Bungee cord
• Trim clip removal tool
• OBD2 scan tool with Ford PSCM functions (specialty)

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPAS steering gear (steering rack assembly) - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod ends - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs.
• Steering gear mounting bolts - Qty: 1 set If required as one-time-use.
• Front subframe bolts - Qty: 1 set If required as one-time-use.
• Front lower control arm pinch bolt/nut hardware - Qty: 2 sets If removed and specified one-time-use.
• Alignment service - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, center the steering wheel, and set the parking brake.
• Use wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Disconnect the battery with a 10mm socket (negative cable first) and wait 5 minutes.
• Use a paint marker to mark the relationship of the steering intermediate shaft to the rack input shaft before separation; this helps keep the steering wheel centered.
• Assumption: Your Escape has factory EPAS (no hydraulic fluid/pump), which is standard for this model year.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front end

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket and breaker bar (1/2").

Step 2: Remove the front underbody shields (if equipped)

• Remove splash shields using a trim clip removal tool and 8mm socket (fasteners vary by shield).
• Set all clips/screws aside in a container. Label left/right hardware.

Step 3: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles

• Remove the tie-rod end nut using the appropriate socket set (8mm-21mm) or wrench set (10mm-21mm).
• Use a tie rod end puller (specialty) to pop the tie rod end out of the knuckle without hammering the threads.
• Count and write down the number of turns when removing each outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod (use a paint marker to mark a reference). This helps get you close enough to drive to alignment.

Step 4: Disconnect the EPAS electrical connectors

• Locate the steering gear electrical connector(s) on the rack.
• Release locks carefully using a trim clip removal tool (as needed), then unplug by hand.
• Secure harnesses out of the way using a bungee cord.

Step 5: Separate the steering intermediate shaft from the rack

• Inside the engine bay/near the firewall area, find the intermediate shaft pinch bolt connection at the rack input.
• Use a paint marker to mark the shaft-to-input alignment.
• Remove the pinch bolt using the correct socket set (8mm-21mm) or Torx bit set (T20-T50) (fastener head varies).
• Slide the shaft up/off the rack input. Do not rotate the steering wheel.
• Torque to Ford specification on reassembly (pinch bolt is safety-critical).

Step 6: Create room to remove the steering gear

• Support components as needed using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and/or bungee cord.
• Depending on equipment, you may need to lower the front subframe slightly to slide the rack out. If subframe bolts are loosened/removed, use a breaker bar (1/2") and socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Torque to Ford specification for any subframe bolts you loosen/remove (these are also safety-critical).

Step 7: Unbolt and remove the steering gear (rack)

• Remove the steering gear mounting bolts using the correct socket set (8mm-21mm) and breaker bar (1/2").
• Use a pry bar (12"-18") gently if the rack is stuck in its mounts.
• Carefully maneuver the rack out through the opening (often toward the driver side). Take your time to avoid damaging wiring/boots.
• Torque to Ford specification for steering gear mounting bolts during installation.

Step 8: Install the new steering gear and reconnect everything

• Position the new rack and hand-start mounting bolts using a socket set (8mm-21mm).
• Tighten with a torque wrench (10-200 ft-lbs range) to Ford specification.
• Reconnect the intermediate shaft, aligning your paint marks; install the pinch bolt using the correct socket or Torx bit and torque wrench to Ford specification.
• Reconnect EPAS electrical connectors by hand until fully seated and locked.
• Reinstall outer tie rod ends (use your turn-count as a starting point), then install nuts using a torque wrench to Ford specification.

Step 9: Reinstall shields and wheels

• Reinstall underbody shields using an 8mm socket and trim clip removal tool (for clips).
• Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle using the floor jack, then torque lug nuts with a torque wrench to Ford specification.

Step 10: Restore power and perform EPAS calibrations

• Reconnect the battery negative cable using a 10mm socket.
• Use an OBD2 scan tool with Ford PSCM functions (specialty) to run required steering system setup (commonly steering angle/center calibration and any PSCM relearn).
• If warning lights remain, scan and clear codes with the same scan tool after confirming wiring is fully connected.

---

✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and confirm steering assist works and the wheel turns smoothly lock-to-lock without binding.
• Check that the steering wheel is close to centered; do not “eyeball” this long-term.
• Get a 4-wheel alignment as soon as possible.
• Road test at low speed first, then normal speeds; recheck for warning lights after the drive.

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,500 (parts + labor + alignment)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts only, plus alignment)

You Save: $500-$1,500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.