🔧 Fusion - Power Steering Pump Replacement

Your Fusion does not use a hydraulic power steering pump. It uses an Electric Power Assisted Steering (EPAS) system, where an electric motor and control module assist steering (so there’s no pump, belt, reservoir, or power-steering fluid to replace).

Assumption: You’re trying to fix a “Power Steering Assist Fault/Service Power Steering” type issue, so below is the correct DIY path: EPAS steering gear (rack) replacement basics.

Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 4-7 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable and wait 10 minutes before working near the steering column (airbag system safety).
• ⚠️ Keep the steering wheel centered and locked; don’t let it spin with the steering shaft disconnected (can damage the clock spring, the ribbon cable for the airbag/horn).
• ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on a level surface; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ The EPAS motor/rack is heavy; have help ready when lowering/removing it.
• ⚠️ After replacement you typically need a steering angle/center calibration and a front alignment.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• Wheel chocks
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Torque wrench (10–200 ft-lbs range)
• Socket set (8mm–21mm)
• Wrench set (8mm–21mm)
• Breaker bar (1/2-inch drive)
• Torx bit set (T20–T50)
• Pry bar (12–18 inch)
• Needle-nose pliers
• Trim clip removal tool
• Paint marker
• Tie rod end puller (specialty)
• Subframe support bar or transmission jack (specialty)
• Scan tool with Ford EPAS functions (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• EPAS steering gear (electric steering rack assembly) - Qty: 1
• Steering intermediate shaft pinch bolt/nut (one-time-use style if equipped) - Qty: 1
• Outer tie rod end nuts (one-time-use style if equipped) - Qty: 2
• Subframe bolts (one-time-use style if equipped) - Qty: 1 set

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, straighten the front wheels, and set the parking brake.
• Use a paint marker to mark the steering wheel centered position.
• Disconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket, then wait 10 minutes.
• Plan for a professional alignment after the job (toe will change when tie rods are disturbed).
• Have a scan tool ready for EPAS calibration after installation (a scan tool is a handheld device that reads/clears codes and runs calibrations).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the car

• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Lift the front with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper lift points.
• Remove both front wheels using a 19mm socket (common lug size) and a breaker bar.

Step 2: Remove underbody shields (if equipped)

• Remove the splash shield/undertray fasteners using a socket set (8mm–10mm) and trim clip removal tool.

Step 3: Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the knuckles

• Remove the tie rod end nuts using a 18mm or 21mm socket (varies by hardware).
• Separate the tie rod end from the knuckle using a tie rod end puller (specialty).
• Tip: Don’t hammer the steering knuckle.

Step 4: Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft from the rack

• From the lower steering column area, locate the intermediate shaft coupler/pinch bolt.
• Mark the relationship of the shaft to the input using a paint marker (helps keep the steering wheel centered).
• Remove the pinch bolt using a 13mm socket (common) and a breaker bar.
• Slide the shaft off the rack input. Use a pry bar (12–18 inch) gently if needed.

Step 5: Unplug EPAS electrical connectors

• Locate the EPAS motor/module connector(s) on the rack.
• Release locking tabs using needle-nose pliers carefully, then unplug by hand.
• Tip: Pull on the connector, not the wires.

Step 6: Support the subframe and create working clearance

• Support the subframe using a subframe support bar or transmission jack (specialty).
• If needed for clearance, loosen (do not fully remove unless required) subframe fasteners using a socket set (15mm–21mm) and breaker bar.
• Torque to factory specification during reassembly (subframe bolts are often one-time-use on many vehicles).

Step 7: Remove the steering rack mounting bolts

• Remove the rack-to-subframe bolts using a socket set (15mm–18mm) and breaker bar.
• Keep track of bolt locations and any brackets/spacers.

Step 8: Remove the steering rack

• With the rack supported, work it out through the opening (usually out the driver side or rearward depending on clearance).
• Use a pry bar (12–18 inch) only as needed to guide past edges without damaging boots or wiring.
• Tip: Have a helper steady the rack.

Step 9: Install the new EPAS steering rack

• Position the new rack in place by hand.
• Start rack mounting bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Tighten using a torque wrench and socket set: Torque to factory specification.
• Reconnect EPAS electrical connectors until locks click in place.

Step 10: Reconnect the intermediate shaft

• Align your paint marks and slide the shaft fully onto the rack input.
• Install the pinch bolt using a socket set and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.

Step 11: Reconnect tie rod ends and reassemble

• Insert tie rod studs into the knuckles.
• Install new nuts using a socket set and tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.
• Reinstall undertrays using a socket set and trim clip removal tool.
• Reinstall wheels using a 19mm socket; tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to factory specification.

Step 12: Restore battery power

• Lower the car safely using the floor jack.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.

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✅ After Repair

• Turn the key on and check for steering warnings before driving.
• Use a scan tool with Ford EPAS functions (specialty) to clear DTCs and perform steering angle/center calibration if required.
• Road test at low speed first, then recheck for warning lights.
• Get a professional front wheel alignment as soon as possible.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $1,200-$2,400 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $450-$1,400 (parts only)

You Save: $750-$1,000 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 4-7 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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