How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2019 Ford Explorer (Step-by-Step DIY)
Complete DIY drain-and-fill guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for your 2019 Explorer ATF service
How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2019 Ford Explorer (Step-by-Step DIY)
Complete DIY drain-and-fill guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for your 2019 Explorer ATF service


🔧 Explorer - Automatic Transmission Fluid Change
You’ll be doing a drain-and-fill on the transmission fluid. This refreshes a good portion of the old fluid without using a machine and is safe for a DIY beginner if you work slowly and carefully.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate (for a beginner) | Estimated Time: 2–3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Only work on a completely cool engine and exhaust to avoid burns.
- ⚠️ Support the Explorer on four jack stands; never rely only on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Transmission fluid (ATF) can be hot and slippery—wear gloves and safety glasses.
- ⚠️ Keep the vehicle level front-to-back and side-to-side; fluid level depends on this.
- ⚠️ Park in a well-ventilated area; you’ll be running the engine for level check.
- ⚠️ Do not overtighten aluminum case bolts; you can crack the transmission.
- ⚠️ Clean up any spills immediately to avoid slipping.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 🛠️ Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- 🛠️ Jack stands (rated 3-ton, set of 4)
- 🛠️ Wheel chocks
- 🛠️ Metric socket set (8mm–19mm)
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive ratchet
- 🛠️ 3/8" drive torque wrench (5–80 ft-lbs range)
- 🛠️ Hex/Allen socket set (metric)
- 🛠️ Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- 🛠️ Drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity)
- 🛠️ Funnel with long flexible hose
- 🛠️ Clean measuring container with quart markings
- 🛠️ Infrared thermometer
- 🛠️ Shop rags or paper towels
- 🛠️ Brake cleaner spray
- 🛠️ Plastic scraper
- 🛠️ Safety glasses
- 🛠️ Nitrile or mechanic’s gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 🔩 Automatic transmission fluid (Mercon LV) - Qty: 6–8 quarts
- 🔩 Transmission pan gasket - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Transmission drain plug gasket or sealing washer - Qty: 1
- 🔩 Brake cleaner (aerosol) - Qty: 1–2 cans
- 🔩 Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack
📋 Before You Begin
- Park the Explorer on a flat, solid surface with plenty of room.
- Engage the parking brake and place the shifter in P (Park).
- Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
- Gather all tools and parts before lifting the vehicle.
- Plan to keep the vehicle level when raised; use four jack stands.
- Transmission fluid type is Mercon LV. Do not mix with other types.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and Support the Explorer
- Use the floor jack to lift the front of the Explorer at the front jacking point (behind the front crossmember).
- Place jack stands under the front pinch welds or frame points and lower the vehicle onto them.
- Repeat for the rear so the vehicle sits level on four jack stands.
- Give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it’s stable.
Step 2: Locate the Transmission Pan, Drain Plug, and Fill Point
- Slide under the vehicle with a flashlight and identify the transmission pan: a flat metal pan on the driver side of the engine bay area.
- Find the drain plug on the pan bottom (center or slightly offset).
- On this transmission, fluid is usually filled through a fill plug on the side/top of the transmission case or through a fill port under the air intake tube. Use a metric socket set and hex socket set to identify which plug fits.
- Confirm fill plug can be opened before draining.
Step 3: Loosen the Fill Plug First
- Position the drain pan under the general transmission area as a precaution.
- Use the appropriate metric socket or hex socket with a 3/8" ratchet to carefully crack loose the fill plug (do not remove it fully yet).
- If fill plug won’t move, do not drain fluid.
Step 4: Drain the Old Fluid
- Move the drain pan directly under the transmission drain plug.
- Use the correct metric socket or hex socket with the 3/8" ratchet to slowly remove the drain plug.
- Allow fluid to drain completely. This may take 10–15 minutes.
- Once flow slows to drips, pour the used fluid from the drain pan into a clean measuring container to see exactly how much came out.
- You’ll refill with the same amount you removed.
Step 5: Inspect and Reinstall the Drain Plug
- Inspect the drain plug and its gasket or sealing washer. Replace the washer with a new one.
- Clean the plug with a shop rag and check for metal shavings; a small amount of fine dust is normal.
- Reinstall the drain plug by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 3/8" ratchet and then a torque wrench with the correct socket to tighten the plug to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
Step 6: (Optional but Recommended) Remove and Clean the Pan
- If you are comfortable, you can remove the entire pan to clean it and replace the gasket.
- Support the pan with one hand and use the metric socket set and 3/8" ratchet to remove the pan bolts around the perimeter.
- Keep a drain pan under the pan, as more fluid will spill when the seal breaks.
- Lower the pan carefully; it may still have some fluid inside.
- Clean the pan thoroughly with brake cleaner and a shop rag. Remove any sludge and wipe the magnet clean.
- Use a plastic scraper to gently remove the old gasket from the pan and transmission mating surface.
- Install the new pan gasket onto the pan.
- Reinstall the pan and start all bolts by hand.
- Use the 3/8" ratchet with the correct socket to snug the bolts in a crisscross pattern.
- Finish with the torque wrench, tightening pan bolts to 12 Nm (106 in-lbs).
Step 7: Add New Transmission Fluid (Engine Off)
- Remove the fill plug completely using the socket or hex socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- Insert the funnel with long hose into the fill hole.
- Slowly pour in Mercon LV ATF, using your measuring container reading to match the amount drained.
- Pour slowly to avoid air pockets or overflow.
- Reinstall the fill plug by hand, then snug lightly with the ratchet (you will recheck level shortly).
Step 8: Warm Up the Transmission for Level Check
- Lower the Explorer by raising each corner with the floor jack and removing the jack stands, then set it back on the ground.
- Start the engine with your foot on the brake.
- With the engine idling, move the shifter slowly through all gears (P–R–N–D–S and back to P), pausing 2–3 seconds in each position.
- This fills all the internal passages with fluid.
- Let the vehicle idle until the transmission reaches around 30–40°C (86–104°F). Use the infrared thermometer on the transmission pan to estimate temperature.
Step 9: Final Fluid Level Check and Adjustment
- With the engine idling and the vehicle on level ground in P, carefully get under the car again.
- Remove the fill/level plug using the socket or hex socket and 3/8" ratchet.
- If fluid begins to dribble out in a thin stream, the level is correct. Allow it to drip until it becomes a slow drip.
- If no fluid comes out, use the funnel with hose to add a small amount of ATF (about 200 ml at a time) until a thin stream starts to flow from the level hole.
- Reinstall the fill/level plug and tighten with the torque wrench to 14 Nm (10 ft-lbs).
- Shut off the engine.
Step 10: Clean Up and Lower the Vehicle
- Spray any spilled ATF off the pan and surrounding areas with brake cleaner and wipe with shop rags.
- Double-check that the drain plug and fill plug are both tight and clean.
- Ensure all tools are removed from under the vehicle.
- Dispose of old ATF at a proper recycling location; do not pour it on the ground or into drains.
Step 11: Optional Second Drain-and-Fill
- Because you only changed the fluid in the pan, some old fluid remains in the torque converter and cooler.
- After driving 200–500 km, you can repeat the drain-and-fill process (Steps 4–10) again for a higher percentage of new fluid.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check that it shifts smoothly through all gears while driving gently.
- After a short 10–15 minute drive, park on a level surface and check underneath for any leaks around the pan, drain plug, and fill plug.
- If you feel any slipping, harsh shifts, or see warning lights, stop driving and recheck fluid level or have a professional inspect it.
- Keep an eye on the parking spot for a few days for any new fluid drips.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250–$400 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80–$150 (parts only)
You Save: $170–$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100–$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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