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2016 Kia K900
2016 Kia K900
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  • Guides
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  • Kia K900
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  • How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2016 Kia K900 (ATF Drain & Fill Guide)
Kia K900 Service and Repairs

Kia K900 Service and Repairs

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
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Safety
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How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2016 Kia K900 (ATF Drain & Fill Guide)

Step-by-step drain, refill, and temperature-based level check with tools, parts, and torque specs

How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2016 Kia K900 (ATF Drain & Fill Guide)

Step-by-step drain, refill, and temperature-based level check with tools, parts, and torque specs

Orion
Orion

🔧 K900 - Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill

This service replaces the old automatic transmission fluid (ATF) by draining what’s in the pan and refilling to the correct level at a specific fluid temperature. Getting the level right matters because too little can cause slipping, and too much can cause foaming and harsh shifting.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Assumption: Your K900 uses an 8-speed RWD automatic with a fill plug and a temperature-based level check.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ ATF can be hot. Wear gloves and safety glasses and let components cool if needed.
  • ⚠️ Keep the car stable: use wheel chocks and never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Engine may need to run during final level check—keep hands/clothes away from moving parts.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
  • Socket set 10mm-24mm
  • Ratchet
  • Torque wrench (10-100 Nm range)
  • Hex bit socket set (5mm-10mm)
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Fluid transfer pump (specialty)
  • OBD2 scan tool with live data (specialty)
  • Shop rags
  • Brake cleaner spray

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Automatic transmission fluid (Kia/Hyundai SP-IV equivalent) - Qty: 6 quarts
  • Transmission drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
  • Transmission fill plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
  • Raise the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points; keep the car level (front-to-rear) for accurate fluid level.
  • Locate your scan tool’s transmission fluid temperature PID. You’ll use it later to set the final level.
  • A transfer pump pushes fluid upward into the fill hole.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower undercovers

  • Use a 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool to remove the splash shield/undercovers under the transmission area.
  • Set all bolts/clips aside in a tray so nothing is lost.

Step 2: Identify the fill plug BEFORE draining

  • Find the transmission fill plug (typically on the side of the case).
  • Use the correct size from your socket set 10mm-24mm or hex bit socket set to loosen it slightly, then snug it back.
  • If you can’t open the fill plug, don’t drain.

Step 3: Drain the old ATF

  • Position a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the transmission drain.
  • Remove the drain plug using the appropriate tool from your socket set 10mm-24mm or hex bit socket set.
  • Let it drain until it slows to a drip.
  • Clean the drain plug area with shop rags and brake cleaner spray.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug (with new washer)

  • Install a new transmission drain plug crush washer on the drain plug.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first (to avoid cross-threading), then tighten with a ratchet.
  • Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench.

Step 5: Refill with new ATF (initial fill)

  • Remove the fill plug using the correct tool from your socket set 10mm-24mm or hex bit socket set.
  • Use a fluid transfer pump (specialty) to pump in ATF (Kia/Hyundai SP-IV equivalent).
  • Add roughly what came out (many drain & fills are about 4-5 quarts), plus a little extra to begin the level-setting process.
  • Install a new transmission fill plug crush washer, then reinstall the fill plug finger-tight for now.

Step 6: Warm the fluid and circulate it

  • Connect your OBD2 scan tool with live data (specialty) and monitor transmission fluid temperature.
  • Start the engine and keep your foot firmly on the brake.
  • Slowly move the shifter through P-R-N-D and back, pausing ~3 seconds in each position to circulate fluid.
  • Leave the engine idling while you proceed to the level check.

Step 7: Set the final fluid level (temperature-based)

  • With the engine idling, watch the scan tool and aim for 50°C-60°C (122°F-140°F).
  • There are 2 common level-check styles—use the one your transmission has:
  • Style A: Overflow/standpipe inside the drain (common on many Kia/Hyundai)
  • Use the correct hex bit socket to remove the small level/overflow plug (center plug) if equipped.
  • Correct level: a thin stream/dribble comes out at the target temperature.
  • If nothing comes out, add ATF through the fill hole using the fluid transfer pump (specialty) until it dribbles.
  • When it becomes a light drip, reinstall the overflow plug and torque to 10 Nm (7 ft-lbs).
  • Style B: Side level plug
  • Use the correct tool from your socket set 10mm-24mm or hex bit socket set to remove the level plug.
  • Correct level: a small steady trickle at the target temperature.
  • If low, add ATF through the fill hole with the fluid transfer pump (specialty) until it trickles from the level hole.
  • Reinstall the level plug and torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Final-tighten the fill plug

  • Shut the engine off.
  • Tighten the fill plug with a torque wrench.
  • Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
  • Clean any spilled fluid using shop rags and brake cleaner spray.

Step 9: Reinstall undercovers and lower the car

  • Reinstall undercovers using the 10mm socket and trim clip removal tool.
  • Lower the car safely using the floor jack and remove jack stands.

✅ After Repair

  • Start the engine and check underneath for leaks around the drain/fill/level plugs.
  • Test drive 10-15 minutes, then re-check for leaks on a clean, dry surface.
  • Confirm shifting feels normal (no flare/slip/harsh engagement).
  • Wipe everything clean so leaks are obvious later.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.


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