How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Toyota Highlander (Sealed 6-Speed WS ATF)
Step-by-step drain-and-fill with overflow level check, ATF temperature range, tools, parts, and torque specs
How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Toyota Highlander (Sealed 6-Speed WS ATF)
Step-by-step drain-and-fill with overflow level check, ATF temperature range, tools, parts, and torque specs


🔧 Highlander - Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill
Your Highlander uses a sealed automatic transmission (no dipstick). A proper service is a drain-and-fill plus an overflow level check at the correct fluid temperature so it’s neither underfilled nor overfilled.
Assumption: Your Highlander has Toyota WS-spec sealed 6-speed automatic with overflow-style level check (common on this model).
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the vehicle with jack stands on a level surface; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🔥 Transmission fluid can be hot; let the drivetrain cool and wear gloves and safety glasses.
- ⚙️ The level check is done with the engine running; keep hands/clothes away from moving parts.
- 🧱 Chock the wheels and keep the shifter in P with the parking brake on.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this service.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8")
- Socket extension (3/8")
- Trim clip removal tool
- Torque wrench (10–100 Nm range)
- Hex bit socket set (6mm, 8mm, 10mm)
- Fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty)
- OBD2 scan tool that reads ATF temperature (specialty)
- Shop rags
- Brake cleaner spray
- Infrared thermometer
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Automatic transmission fluid (Toyota WS equivalent) - Qty: 4–6 quarts
- Transmission drain plug gasket/crush washer - Qty: 1
- Transmission fill plug gasket/crush washer - Qty: 1
- Overflow/check plug gasket/crush washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface; the transmission level check is inaccurate if the vehicle is tilted.
- Set parking brake, place shifter in P, and install wheel chocks.
- Gather your OBD2 scan tool and confirm you can view ATF Temperature (this is the temperature of the transmission fluid).
- Tip: Always loosen the fill plug first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Raise and level the vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front, then the rear, and set the vehicle on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Confirm the vehicle sits level (important for correct fluid level).
Step 2: Remove the lower engine/transmission under cover
- Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and trim clip removal tool to remove the fasteners and clips.
- Set the cover and hardware aside in a small pile so nothing is lost.
Step 3: Locate the transmission fill, drain, and overflow/check plugs
- Wipe the transmission case clean with shop rags and brake cleaner spray so dirt can’t fall into the openings.
- Use your hex bit socket set (6mm, 8mm, 10mm) to test-fit each plug (do not strip the hex).
- Fill plug: used to add fluid with the pump.
- Drain plug: drains fluid into the pan.
- Overflow/check plug: sets the final level when fluid is at the correct temperature.
Step 4: Loosen the fill plug first
- Place a drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the transmission area.
- Use the correct size from your hex bit socket set (6mm, 8mm, 10mm) with a ratchet (3/8") and socket extension (3/8") to crack the fill plug loose.
- If the fill plug will not loosen, stop here (draining first could leave you unable to refill).
Step 5: Drain the old transmission fluid
- Use the correct hex bit socket and ratchet (3/8") to remove the drain plug.
- Let fluid drain into the drain pan until it slows to a drip.
- Replace the drain plug gasket/crush washer with the new one.
- Reinstall the drain plug and use a torque wrench: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Pump in new Toyota WS-spec fluid
- Insert the hose from the fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) into the fill port.
- Pump in new automatic transmission fluid (Toyota WS equivalent) until fluid begins to run out of the overflow/check opening (or until you’ve added roughly what you drained, if you’re not opening the check plug yet).
- Install a new fill plug gasket/crush washer, then thread the fill plug in by hand.
- Snug the fill plug with the hex bit socket and ratchet (3/8") (final torque comes after level set, if you removed it again).
Step 7: Set the fluid level using ATF temperature (overflow method)
- Connect your OBD2 scan tool that reads ATF temperature (specialty) and display ATF Temperature.
- Start the engine and keep your foot on the brake.
- Move the shifter slowly through R → N → D → S and back to P, pausing 2–3 seconds in each position to fill circuits.
- With engine still running, remove the overflow/check plug using the correct hex bit socket and ratchet (3/8").
- Watch ATF temperature on the scan tool and bring it to 40–45°C (104–113°F).
- At 40–45°C (104–113°F):
- If fluid is a steady stream, let it drain until it becomes a thin drip.
- If no fluid comes out, add fluid through the fill port using the fluid transfer pump (hand pump) (specialty) until it starts to drip from the overflow/check opening.
- Install a new overflow/check plug gasket/crush washer and reinstall the overflow/check plug.
- Use a torque wrench: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Now torque the fill plug with a torque wrench: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
- Tip: Temperature matters more than “how much you poured in”.
Step 8: Reinstall under cover and lower the vehicle
- Reinstall the under cover using the 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and trim clip removal tool.
- Lower the vehicle safely using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Wipe down any spilled fluid using shop rags.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine running, inspect for leaks around the fill, drain, and overflow/check plugs.
- Road test 10–15 minutes. Confirm smooth shifts and no flare or slip.
- Recheck underneath for leaks after the test drive.
- Tip: Dispose of used ATF at a recycling center.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130-$405 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















