🔧 Escape - Transmission Fluid Drain & Fill

On your Escape’s 6-speed automatic (6F35), the most DIY-friendly service is a drain-and-fill. It replaces a large portion of the old fluid, helps shift quality, and is much safer than a “power flush” on high-mile units.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5–3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support the Escape with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Transmission fluid level is checked with the engine running; keep hands/clothes clear of the cooling fan and belts.
• ⚠️ Use level ground for the final fluid level check, or the level will be wrong.
• ⚠️ Let the exhaust and transmission cool if they’re hot to the touch.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for a drain-and-fill.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Fluid transfer pump (specialty)
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• 3/8" square drive (ratchet end used as driver)
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Flat trim tool
• Torque wrench (10–80 Nm range)
• Scan tool with transmission fluid temperature PID (specialty)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Automatic transmission fluid (Motorcraft MERCON LV) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Transmission drain plug seal/washer - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
• Plan a way to read transmission fluid temperature (TFT). Best is a scan tool (it reads the TFT sensor inside the transmission).
• Drain-and-fill typically removes about 4–5 quarts.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Warm the fluid slightly

• Drive 5–10 minutes so the transmission is warm (not scorching hot).
• Shut the engine off and open the hood.

Step 2: Raise and support the Escape

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front safely at the proper jacking point.
• Set it down on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and give the vehicle a firm shake test.

Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Use an 8mm socket and flat trim tool to remove the fasteners and clips.
• Set the shield hardware aside so nothing gets lost.

Step 4: Drain the transmission fluid

• Position a drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the transmission drain plug.
• Remove the drain plug using a 3/8" square drive (ratchet end used as driver).
• Let it drain until it slows to an occasional drip.

Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug

• Clean the drain plug area using shop rags and brake cleaner.
• Install a new transmission drain plug seal/washer if your plug uses one.
• Tighten the drain plug with a torque wrench (10–80 Nm range): Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 6: Access the transmission fill plug

• Remove the air intake ducting as needed for access using an 8mm socket and 10mm socket.
• Locate the transmission fill plug on top of the transmission case and remove it using a 3/8" square drive (ratchet end used as driver).
• No dipstick here—this plug is the fill point.

Step 7: Refill with MERCON LV

• Use a fluid transfer pump (specialty) and funnel to add Motorcraft MERCON LV through the fill opening.
• Add roughly the same amount you drained (most drain-and-fills are ~4–5 quarts).
• Reinstall the fill plug snug for now using the 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 8: Set the correct fluid level (final check)

• Connect your scan tool with transmission fluid temperature PID (specialty) and monitor TFT.
• Start the engine. Keep your foot on the brake.
• Move the shifter slowly through P-R-N-D and back to P, pausing 2–3 seconds in each position.
• With the engine idling and TFT at 27–49°C (80–120°F), remove the transmission level/check plug on the side of the case using the 3/8" square drive (ratchet end used as driver).
• If fluid only drips or runs in a thin stream, the level is close. If nothing comes out, add fluid from the top fill using the fluid transfer pump (specialty) until it begins to dribble from the check port.
• Reinstall the level/check plug and tighten with a torque wrench (10–80 Nm range): Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).

Step 9: Reinstall intake parts and splash shield

• Reinstall the intake ducting using the 8mm socket and 10mm socket.
• Reinstall the splash shield using the 8mm socket and flat trim tool.

Step 10: Lower the Escape

• Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum), then lower to the ground.
• Remove the wheel chocks.

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✅ After Repair

• Start the engine and check underneath for leaks.
• Road test 10–15 minutes. Verify smooth shifts and no slipping.
• Recheck for seepage around the drain plug and check/level plug.
• If shifts feel odd, recheck level at temp.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45–$90 (parts only)

You Save: $160–$405 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5–2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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