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2008 Honda Accord
2008 Honda Accord
EX - V6 3.5L
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How to Change the Transmission Fluid on a 2008 Honda Accord

How to Change the Transmission Fluid on a 2008 Honda Accord

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3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
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How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2008 Honda Accord (Automatic or Manual)

Step-by-step drain-and-fill guide with correct Honda fluid types, tools, safety tips, and torque specs

How to Change Transmission Fluid on a 2008 Honda Accord (Automatic or Manual)

Step-by-step drain-and-fill guide with correct Honda fluid types, tools, safety tips, and torque specs

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Transmission Fluid Change

This job is usually a simple drain-and-refill (not a “power flush”). Fresh fluid helps shifting quality and extends transmission life. The exact steps and fluid type depend on whether your Accord is an automatic or a manual.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Transmission fluid can be very hot—let the car cool if needed.
  • ⚠️ Keep the car level when checking/filling fluid.
  • ⚠️ Do not mix fluid types; use the correct Honda fluid.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
  • Shop rags
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
  • 17mm socket
  • Long funnel
  • Measuring container (quart/liter marked)
  • Trim clip tool
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • 3/8" square drive (specialty)

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Honda ATF DW-1 automatic transmission fluid - Qty: 4 quarts
  • Honda Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) - Qty: 3 quarts
  • Transmission drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
  • 🌡️ Drive 10 minutes to warm the fluid, then shut the engine off.
  • 🧰 A crush washer is a soft metal washer that seals when tightened; always replace it.
  • 📏 A torque wrench helps tighten bolts to the correct tightness so they seal without stripping.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Identify which transmission you have

  • Open the hood and look for an automatic transmission dipstick near the transmission case.
  • If you see a dipstick for ATF, follow the Automatic (ATF DW-1) steps below.
  • If there is no ATF dipstick, follow the Manual (Honda MTF) steps below.

Step 2A: Automatic — Raise and safely support the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the front jacking point.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands placed at the front pinch welds.
  • Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it is stable.

Step 3A: Automatic — Locate the drain plug and drain the ATF

  • Place an 8-quart drain pan under the transmission drain plug.
  • If an under-cover blocks access, remove clips/fasteners using a trim clip tool and flathead screwdriver.
  • Use a 17mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the drain plug.
  • Let it drain fully (typically 10–15 minutes).

Step 4A: Automatic — Reinstall drain plug with new crush washer

  • Install a new crush washer on the drain plug.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Tighten using a torque wrench and 17mm socket: Torque to 49 N·m (36 ft-lbs).

Step 5A: Automatic — Measure what came out, then refill through the dipstick tube

  • Pour the drained fluid into a measuring container and note the amount.
  • Remove the ATF dipstick and insert a long funnel into the dipstick tube.
  • Pour in the same amount of new Honda ATF DW-1 you measured.
  • Match the amount first, then fine-tune level.

Step 6A: Automatic — Check ATF level correctly

  • Start the engine and keep your foot on the brake.
  • Move the shifter slowly through each gear (P-R-N-D and back), pausing 2 seconds in each.
  • With the engine idling on level ground, pull the dipstick, wipe it with a shop rag, reinsert, then check level.
  • Add ATF DW-1 in small amounts using the funnel until it reads in the proper range.
  • Reinstall the dipstick fully.

Step 7A: Automatic — Optional “3x drain & fill” for better exchange

  • Drive 5–10 minutes, then repeat Steps 3A–6A two more times.
  • This gradually replaces more old fluid without a machine.

Step 2B: Manual — Raise and safely support the car

  • Use a floor jack to lift the front of the car at the front jacking point.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands placed at the front pinch welds.
  • Keep the car level for accurate fill.

Step 3B: Manual — Remove the FILL plug first

  • Place the drain pan underneath the transmission case area.
  • Locate the manual transmission fill plug on the side of the case.
  • Use a 3/8" square drive (specialty) to loosen and remove the fill plug.
  • If fill plug won’t open, stop.

Step 4B: Manual — Drain the old fluid

  • Locate the manual transmission drain plug at the bottom of the case.
  • Use a 3/8" square drive (specialty) to remove the drain plug.
  • Let it drain fully (10–15 minutes).

Step 5B: Manual — Reinstall drain plug with new crush washer

  • Install a new crush washer on the drain plug.
  • Thread in by hand, then tighten with a torque wrench and 3/8" square drive (specialty): Torque to 44 N·m (33 ft-lbs).

Step 6B: Manual — Refill with Honda MTF and reinstall fill plug

  • Use a long funnel to add Honda MTF through the fill hole.
  • Fill until fluid just begins to seep out of the fill hole (common “full” indicator).
  • Reinstall the fill plug and tighten with a torque wrench and 3/8" square drive (specialty): Torque to 44 N·m (33 ft-lbs).
  • Wipe the area clean with shop rags.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Test drive 10 minutes and verify smooth shifting.
  • ✅ Park on a clean surface and check for leaks around the drain/fill areas.
  • ✅ Recheck level: automatic via dipstick; manual by confirming no seep/leak at plugs.
  • 🧾 Dispose of used fluid at a recycling center or parts store that accepts it.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-2.0 hours.


🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


Quick question (so I can keep you on the exact path): Do you have an ATF dipstick (automatic), or a manual fill plug with no dipstick?

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