How to Change Transmission Fluid (Drain & Refill) on a 2011 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with Honda ATF DW-1, tools list, drain plug torque spec, and level check tips
How to Change Transmission Fluid (Drain & Refill) on a 2011 Honda CR-V
Step-by-step DIY guide with Honda ATF DW-1, tools list, drain plug torque spec, and level check tips


🔧 CR-V - Transmission Fluid Drain & Refill
This service replaces a portion of your CR-V’s automatic transmission fluid by draining it from the transmission pan and refilling through the dipstick tube. A drain-and-refill is the safest DIY method and helps restore smooth shifting and transmission life.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and support the CR-V with jack stands before going underneath.
- 🔥 Transmission fluid can be hot—let it cool if you just drove.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; ATF is slippery and messy.
- ⚙️ Do not confuse this with rear differential fluid (your 4WD has separate fluids).
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Funnel with long neck
- Clean shop rags
- Measuring container (at least 4 quarts)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Honda-spec automatic transmission fluid (ATF DW-1 equivalent) - Qty: 4 quarts
- Automatic transmission drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Warm the transmission slightly with a 5–10 minute drive, then shut the engine off and let things cool a few minutes. Warm fluid drains faster.
- Lift the front with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper lift points.
- Open the hood and locate the transmission dipstick so you know where you’ll refill.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Locate the transmission drain plug
- Slide your drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the transmission.
- Find the transmission drain plug on the transmission case (it uses a square recess).
- Use a clean shop rag to wipe dirt around the plug so none falls inside.
Step 2: Drain the old transmission fluid
- Use a 3/8" drive ratchet inserted directly into the drain plug (no socket needed) to loosen it.
- Finish unthreading by hand and let the fluid drain fully into the pan.
- Pour the drained fluid into a measuring container (at least 4 quarts) so you know how much to add back.
Step 3: Replace the crush washer and reinstall the drain plug
- Remove the old washer from the drain plug and install the new automatic transmission drain plug crush washer.
- Thread the drain plug in by hand until snug (prevents cross-threading).
- Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench to tighten: Torque to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
Step 4: Refill through the dipstick tube
- Under the hood, remove the transmission dipstick and set it on a clean shop rag.
- Insert a funnel with long neck into the dipstick tube.
- Add the same amount you measured out, using Honda-spec automatic transmission fluid (ATF DW-1 equivalent). Add slowly to avoid spills.
- Reinstall the dipstick fully.
Step 5: Circulate fluid and check the level
- Start the engine.
- With your foot on the brake, shift slowly through P-R-N-D-2-1, pausing 2–3 seconds in each position, then return to P.
- Shut the engine off and wait about 60 seconds.
- Pull the dipstick, wipe it with a clean shop rag, reinsert fully, then pull again to read the level.
- If low, add small amounts using the funnel with long neck, then recheck. Do not overfill.
Step 6: Lower the CR-V and do a final leak check
- Remove tools from under the CR-V.
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower to the ground.
- Look underneath for any fresh drips at the drain plug area.
✅ After Repair
- Take a 10–15 minute test drive and confirm shifting feels normal (no slipping or harsh shifts).
- Park on level ground and recheck the dipstick level again using a clean shop rag.
- Inspect the drain plug area for seepage over the next day.
- If the fluid was very dark/burnt, consider doing 2 more drain-and-refills a few days apart to gradually refresh more of the fluid.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$80 (parts only)
You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















