How to Change the Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2012 Ford F-150
Step-by-step oil change guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and oil life reset
How to Change the Engine Oil and Oil Filter on a 2012 Ford F-150
Step-by-step oil change guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and oil life reset
🔧 Engine Oil and Oil Filter - Oil Change
Changing the oil and filter keeps the turbo engine lubricated, helps control heat, and removes dirt from the system. On your F-150, this is a straightforward service if you can safely raise the front of the truck and access the drain plug and oil filter.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a level surface and set the parking brake before you start.
- The engine oil and exhaust parts can be hot. Let the engine cool enough to work safely.
- Use jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone. Jack stands are metal supports that hold the truck up safely.
- Wear safety glasses and gloves. Used oil can splash during draining.
- Do not overfill the crankcase. Too much oil can damage the engine or turbocharger.
- If you raise the truck, chock the rear wheels.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 15mm socket
- 32mm socket
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench
- Oil drain pan
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- Funnel
- Oil filter wrench
- Rags or shop towels
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 synthetic) - Qty: 6 quarts
- Oil filter - Qty: 1
- Drain plug washer - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Shift into Park and chock the rear wheels.
- If the engine is cold, start it for a few minutes only so the oil flows better, then shut it off.
- Raise the front of the truck only if needed for access, then support it with jack stands.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Warm and secure the truck
- Run the engine for 3-5 minutes if it is cold, then shut it off.
- Set the parking brake and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
- If needed, use the floor jack to raise the front of the truck and set it on jack stands.
- Let it cool enough to avoid burns.
Step 2: Remove the oil drain plug
- Place the oil drain pan under the oil pan.
- Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Let the oil drain completely.
- Replace the drain plug washer if your plug uses one.
Step 3: Remove the oil filter
- Move the drain pan under the oil filter housing.
- Use a 32mm socket and ratchet to loosen the filter cap.
- Remove the cap and old filter element.
- Let the filter housing drain into the pan.
Step 4: Install the new oil filter
- Remove the old filter element from the cap.
- Install the new filter element onto the cap.
- Lightly coat the new filter O-ring with clean engine oil.
- Reinstall the cap and tighten with the 32mm socket.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Reinstall the drain plug
- Clean the drain plug and sealing surface.
- Install the drain plug with the new washer if used.
- Use the 15mm socket and torque wrench to tighten it.
- Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Refill the engine with oil
- Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine.
- Use a funnel and add about 5.5 quarts first.
- Add the rest slowly until the dipstick shows near the full mark.
- Install the oil filler cap.
Step 7: Start and check for leaks
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
- Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
- Shut the engine off and wait a few minutes.
- Check the dipstick and top off if needed.
Step 8: Reset the oil life monitor
- Use the steering wheel buttons or dash menu to find the oil life reset function.
- Reset the oil life indicator to 100%.
- If your display menu differs, follow the message center prompts for oil life reset.
✅ After Repair
- Drive the truck for a short test drive and recheck for leaks.
- Verify the oil level again after the truck sits for a few minutes.
- Check that the oil life monitor was reset.
- Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling location.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $110-$180 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)
You Save: $75-$110 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















