🔧 Forester - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects your engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; hot oil can burn.
• ⚠️ Support your Forester with jack stands before going underneath.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to avoid smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart)
• Funnel
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench, 65mm 14-flute (specialty)
• Flat trim clip tool (specialty)
• 12mm socket
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
• Gather parts and tools, and set a drain pan under the engine area.
• Crush washer = soft sealing ring for drain plug.
• Oil filter wrench grips the filter to loosen it.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Warm the oil slightly

• Start the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off.
• Wait 10–15 minutes so the oil is warm (drains faster) but not scorching hot.

Step 2: Raise and support the front

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front jacking point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Shake the vehicle gently to confirm it’s stable before going underneath.

Step 3: Remove the front under cover (if equipped)

• Use a flat trim clip tool (specialty) to pop out the plastic clips.
• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any bolts holding the cover.
• Set the cover and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 4: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (at least 8-quart) under the drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then remove it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5–10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug with shop rags and replace the oil drain plug crush washer.

Step 5: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench (10–80 ft-lbs range) with a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 42 Nm (31 ft-lbs).
• Stop at torque; don’t “make it extra tight.”

Step 6: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench, 65mm 14-flute (specialty) to loosen the filter.
• Spin the filter off by hand and let it drain into the pan.
• Use shop rags to wipe the sealing surface where the filter gasket sits.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket did not stick to the engine.

Step 7: Install the new oil filter

• Dip a finger in new oil and lightly oil the rubber gasket on the new filter.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.
• If you must use the oil filter wrench, 65mm 14-flute (specialty), use it only for a small snug—do not over-tighten.

Step 8: Reinstall the under cover

• Reposition the cover and start all fasteners by hand.
• Use a 12mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Reinstall clips by hand, pressing them in until seated.

Step 9: Refill the engine with oil

• Lower the vehicle back to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add 0W-20 full synthetic.
• Add about 4.0 quarts first, then top off slowly to reach the correct level.

Step 10: Start, leak-check, and set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop rags, reinsert, and re-check.
• Top off as needed so the oil level is near the full mark (do not overfill).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the oil level again after your first short drive.
• Dispose of used oil and the filter at a recycling/parts store drop-off.
• If your Forester shows an oil maintenance reminder, reset it in the vehicle settings (menu wording can vary): Settings > Maintenance > Engine Oil > Reset.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$170 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$100 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.