🔧 CX-5 - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil. Fresh oil protects your engine from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and chock the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Never get under a vehicle supported only by a jack; use jack stands.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 15-30 minutes if needed.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; used oil is messy and irritating.
• ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Ratchet
• 17mm socket
• 8mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (adjustable band type)
• Flat trim clip remover (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your CX-5 on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (this helps the oil drain).
• Gather a drain pan, rags, and keep pets/kids away from your work area.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of your CX-5

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front of the vehicle at the proper front jack point.
• Set the vehicle down onto jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum) and gently rock the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine splash shield (under cover)

• Position the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the engine area to catch any drips.
• Remove the under cover fasteners using an 8mm socket and/or 10mm socket (bolt sizes can vary by fastener).
• Pop out any plastic push-clips using a flat trim clip remover (specialty) (a trim clip remover is a flat forked tool that lifts plastic clips without breaking them).
• Set the shield and fasteners aside in a small pile so you don’t lose them.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Slide the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 17mm socket and ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (typically 5-10 minutes).

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer

• Wipe the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface using shop rags.
• Install a new drain plug crush washer onto the drain plug.
• Thread the plug in by hand first (prevents cross-threading), then tighten with a torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range).
• Torque to 30-41 Nm (22-30 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity) under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
• Use an oil filter wrench (adjustable band type) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (sometimes it sticks to the engine).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Wipe the filter mounting surface clean with shop rags.
• Put a small film of fresh oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a dab of engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) on your gloved finger).
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand. Hand-tight is usually correct.
• If you choose to use a torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range) with a suitable adapter, tighten to the filter maker’s spec (commonly 12-16 Nm (9-12 ft-lbs)), but hand-tight is preferred for most spin-on filters.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield

• Reposition the under cover and install the clips/bolts by hand first.
• Tighten fasteners using the 8mm socket and/or 10mm socket (snug them—do not overtighten plastic).

Step 8: Refill with new oil

• Lower the vehicle off the jack stands (pair, rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
• Pour in about 4.8 quarts of engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) to start, then reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 9: Start the engine and check for leaks

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick level and top off as needed (use the funnel). Don’t overfill.

Step 10: Reset the oil change reminder

• On the center screen, use one of these paths (Mazda menus vary slightly):
• Home > Applications > Vehicle Status Monitor > Maintenance > Oil Change > Reset
• Home > Settings > Vehicle > Maintenance Details > Oil Change > Reset

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick after your first short drive and top off if needed.
• Confirm there are no drips under the engine after parking for a few minutes.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling drop-off (most auto parts stores accept it).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$65 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$95 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.