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2018 Ford Mustang
2018 Ford Mustang
GT Premium - V8 5.0L
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2018-2023 Gen 3 5.0L Coyote Mustang GT/Bullitt/Mach 1: Oil Change & Oil Life Reset - Full Process

2018-2023 Gen 3 5.0L Coyote Mustang GT/Bullitt/Mach 1: Oil Change & Oil Life Reset - Full Process

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
15mm
15mm
Socket
or (9/16")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2018 Ford Mustang

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, oil capacity, drain plug torque spec, and oil life reset

How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2018 Ford Mustang

Step-by-step DIY oil change with required tools, oil capacity, drain plug torque spec, and oil life reset

Orion
Orion

đź”§ Mustang - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

On your Mustang, you’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil and verify the level. Fresh oil protects the 5.0L from wear and helps keep oil pressure and valve timing components happy.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
  • 🔥 Warm oil drains faster, but hot oil can burn—let the engine cool 10-20 minutes before draining.
  • đź§Ż Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately.
  • đź”’ Put the shifter in P and set the parking brake before lifting.

đź”§ Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 15mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs)
  • 7mm socket
  • Oil filter wrench 76mm 14-flute
  • Oil drain pan (10-quart minimum)
  • Funnel
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Shop towels

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (SAE 5W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 8 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Oil drain plug gasket - Qty: 1

đź“‹ Before You Begin

  • Park on a level surface, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
  • Let the engine cool 10–20 minutes so the oil is warm, not scalding.
  • Open the hood and remove the oil filler cap (this helps the crankcase vent while draining).

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the front of the car

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front center lift point.
  • Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently rock-check stability.
  • If it feels sketchy, lower and re-position.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Position the oil drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the engine area.
  • Use a 7mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the splash shield fasteners and lower the panel.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

  • Put on nitrile gloves and safety glasses.
  • Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
  • Wipe the drain plug clean using shop towels, and replace the oil drain plug gasket if your plug uses a separate gasket.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first (to avoid cross-threading).
  • Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs) with a 15mm socket.
  • Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs)

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

  • Move the oil drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (some oil will spill).
  • Use an oil filter wrench 76mm 14-flute to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Keep the filter upright to reduce spills.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a major leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

  • Put a light film of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket (use a finger—this helps it seal).
  • Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the base.
  • Tighten by hand an additional 3/4 turn. Do not use the wrench to tighten.
  • Hand-tight is right for most filters.

Step 7: Reinstall the splash shield

  • Lift the shield into place and start the fasteners by hand.
  • Use a 7mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to snug the fasteners.

Step 8: Refill with new oil

  • Lower the car safely off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
  • Insert a funnel into the oil fill opening.
  • Pour in 7.5 quarts of SAE 5W-20 full synthetic first (don’t dump all 8 at once).
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, then set the final oil level

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
  • Shut the engine off and wait 3–5 minutes for oil to drain back.
  • Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter using safety glasses and shop towels.
  • Check the dipstick and top off slowly until the level is at the full mark (usually close to the full 8-quart capacity with filter).

Step 10: Reset the oil life monitor

  • Turn the ignition on (engine off).
  • On the instrument cluster, use the steering wheel controls to navigate: Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset
  • Press and hold OK until it resets to 100%.

âś… After Repair

  • Recheck the dipstick after your first short drive and top off if needed.
  • Look under the car the next morning for any fresh drips near the drain plug or filter.
  • Dispose of used oil and the old filter at a recycling center or parts store that accepts waste oil.

đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $140-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$95 (parts only)

You Save: $85-$125 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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