🔧 GS - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

This job drains the old engine oil, replaces the cartridge-style oil filter, and refills with fresh oil. Fresh oil protects your engine from wear and keeps the variable valve timing system working properly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, level surface and chock the rear wheels.
• ⚠️ Never rely on a jack alone—support the car with jack stands.
• ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot—let the engine cool 15-30 minutes before draining.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and exhaust parts to avoid smoke/odor.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (at least 10-quart)
• Funnel
• Metric socket set
• 14mm socket
• 3/8" ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim clip tool
• 10mm socket
• 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty)
• Shop rags

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge - Qty: 1
• Oil filter housing O-ring set - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Warm the engine 2-3 minutes, then shut it off and let it sit 15-30 minutes so oil isn’t scalding hot.
• Gather your tools and parts; place drain pan and rags under the front of the engine.
• Plan ahead for oil recycling.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and secure the front of the car

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front center jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the front pinch welds or factory stand points.

Step 2: Remove the lower engine cover access area

• Use a 10mm socket and flat trim clip tool to remove the bolts/clips for the access door (or front portion) of the under cover.
• Fold the cover down or remove it enough to reach the oil drain plug and the oil filter housing.
• Keep clips in a cup so none disappear.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (at least 10-quart) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
• Remove the old drain plug washer and install the new oil drain plug gasket/washer.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a torque wrench with a 14mm socket and Torque to 40 Nm (30 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags.

Step 5: Remove the oil filter housing and replace the cartridge

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter housing (it will spill some oil).
• Use the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) with a 3/8" ratchet to loosen the oil filter housing cap (turn counterclockwise).
• Pull the housing down, remove the old oil filter cartridge, and let it drain into the pan.
• Replace the housing O-rings from the oil filter housing O-ring set.
• A small O-ring seals the cap and a larger O-ring seals the housing—make sure both are fully seated and lightly oiled.
• Oil the O-rings so they don’t pinch.

Step 6: Reinstall and torque the oil filter housing

• Install the new oil filter cartridge into the housing/cap as designed.
• Thread the housing/cap in by hand until snug.
• Use a torque wrench with the 64mm 14-flute oil filter cap wrench (specialty) and Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the housing and surrounding area clean with shop rags.

Step 7: Reinstall the under cover

• Reposition the cover/access door.
• Use a 10mm socket and flat trim clip tool to reinstall bolts and clips snugly (do not over-tighten plastic).

Step 8: Lower the car and refill with oil

• Use the floor jack to lift slightly, remove the jack stands, then lower the car fully.
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add 0W-20 full synthetic (start with about 6.0 quarts).
• Reinstall the oil cap.

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30-60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to drain back to the pan.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter housing.
• Check the dipstick, then top off as needed (most end up around 6.4 quarts total with filter, but always use the dipstick as final truth).

Step 10: Reset the maintenance reminder

• With the car off, press the START button twice without pressing the brake to go to ignition ON.
• Use the steering wheel controls to display the Trip A screen.
• Turn the car off.
• Press and hold the ODO/TRIP (or Trip reset) button, then press START twice (ignition ON) while continuing to hold.
• Release when the reminder resets (countdown/zeros).

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck the dipstick after your first short drive (5-10 minutes) and top off if needed.
• Look underneath again for any seepage around the drain plug and filter housing.
• Pour the used oil into sealed containers and recycle it properly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.