🔧 Colorado - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

This service drains the old engine oil and replaces the oil filter so your engine stays lubricated and clean. Doing it on schedule helps prevent engine wear and sludge buildup.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.5 hours

Assumption: your Colorado uses the 3.6L V6 with a spin-on oil filter.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface and support the truck with jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• 🔥 Engine oil and exhaust parts can be hot. Let it cool if needed to avoid burns.
• 🧤 Wear nitrile gloves and safety glasses; used oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• 🧯 Keep oil away from the exhaust and clean spills immediately to reduce fire risk.
• 🔒 With a manual transmission, leave it in 1st gear (or Reverse) and set the parking brake before lifting.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 6" extension (3/8" drive)
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive, 10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Oil filter wrench (strap-style)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Creeper or kneeling pad

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (SAE 5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug gasket/washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes so the oil flows easier, then shut it off. Warm, not scorching hot.
• Gather your oil drain pan, new filter, and new oil so you’re not scrambling mid-job.
• If equipped with a lower splash shield, be ready to remove its access panel (some trucks have one, some don’t).

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and safely support the front of the truck

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame and lower the truck onto them.
• Give the truck a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you go underneath.

Step 2: Remove any oil drain access cover (if equipped)

• Slide the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the engine oil pan area.
• If a shield blocks access, use a 3/8" drive ratchet with the correct fastener tooling as needed, then move the panel aside.
• Keep fasteners together in a cup.

Step 3: Drain the old engine oil

• Position the drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug (oil will shoot out a bit at first).
• Use a 15mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet (and 6" extension if needed) to loosen the drain plug.
• Finish removing the plug by hand and let the oil drain for 10+ minutes.
• Wipe the drain plug clean with shop rags and replace the oil drain plug gasket/washer if your plug uses one.

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading (damaging the threads).
• Use a torque wrench with a 15mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Wipe the area clean with shop rags so leaks are easy to spot later.

Step 5: Remove the old oil filter

• Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (the filter will spill oil when removed).
• Use an oil filter wrench (strap-style) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket (seal) came off with the filter. If it stuck to the engine, peel it off with a shop rag.

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Dip a gloved finger in new oil and lightly oil the new filter’s rubber gasket. This helps it seal.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
• Hand-tight is correct—don’t crank it down.

Step 7: Add new oil

• Lower the truck back onto the ground using the floor jack (remove jack stands first).
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add 6 quarts of SAE 5W-30 full synthetic, dexos1 approved.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and verify the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.
• Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick. Add oil as needed to reach the full mark (add a little at a time).
• Wipe any drips with shop rags.

Step 9: Reset the Oil Life Monitor

• Turn the key to ON (engine off).
• Use the steering wheel buttons to navigate the Driver Information Center to the Oil Life screen.
• Press and hold SET/CLR until it resets to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Recheck for leaks after your first short drive (5–10 minutes).
• Confirm the dipstick level is still at the full mark after the engine sits 5 minutes.
• Dispose of used oil and the old filter properly—most parts stores accept used oil for recycling.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $90-$160 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$70 (parts only)

You Save: $55-$90 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.