🔧 Camaro - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

This service drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter, and refills with fresh oil. Fresh oil protects your 3.6L from wear and helps it run cooler and cleaner.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.75-1.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; oil and exhaust parts can burn you.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves and safety glasses; hot oil can splash.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and tires; clean spills immediately.
• Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Socket wrench (3/8" drive)
• 15mm socket
• 7mm socket
• 10mm socket
• Torque wrench (3/8" drive)
• Oil drain pan (10-quart minimum)
• Oil filter wrench
• Funnel
• Trim clip remover
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Shop towels

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic, dexos1 approved) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug seal - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Camaro on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
• Gather a drain pan and set up a place to pour used oil into a sealed container for recycling.
• Warm oil drains faster, but don’t work on a hot engine.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of your Camaro

• Place wheel chocks behind the rear tires.
• Lift the front using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) at the correct front jacking point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper support points and gently shake-test for stability.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

• Look under the front for an underbody panel blocking access to the drain plug/filter.
• Remove screws/bolts using a 7mm socket and/or 10mm socket with a socket wrench (3/8" drive).
• Remove any push-clips using a trim clip remover (this tool pops plastic clips out without breaking them).
• Set hardware aside in a small tray so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the oil drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Loosen and remove the drain plug using a 15mm socket and socket wrench (3/8" drive).
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Install a new oil drain plug seal on the plug (the seal helps prevent leaks).

Step 4: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

• Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Tighten using a torque wrench (3/8" drive) and 15mm socket.
• Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the oil filter

• Move the oil drain pan (10-quart minimum) under the oil filter area (the filter will spill oil when removed).
• Loosen the filter using an oil filter wrench, then spin it off by hand.
• Wipe the sealing surface clean using shop towels.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter (a stuck gasket can cause a major leak).

Step 6: Install the new oil filter

• Lightly oil the new filter’s rubber gasket using a dab of new oil on a shop towel.
• Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then tighten 3/4 turn more by hand.
• Hand-tight only—overtightening makes removal hard.

Step 7: Reinstall the lower splash shield (if removed)

• Reposition the panel and start all fasteners by hand.
• Tighten using a 7mm socket and/or 10mm socket with a socket wrench (3/8" drive).
• Reinstall clips using the trim clip remover to align holes, then push clips in.

Step 8: Refill with new engine oil

• Lower the car back to the ground using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Place a funnel in the fill hole and add 0W-20 full synthetic, dexos1 approved oil.
• Add about 5.5 quarts first, then wait 1 minute and check the dipstick; top off slowly to the full mark (typical fill is about 6 quarts with filter).

Step 9: Start, check for leaks, and recheck the oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
• Shut it off and look underneath for leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
• Wait 3–5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off as needed using the funnel.

Step 10: Reset the oil life monitor

• Turn ignition ON (engine OFF).
• Use the steering wheel controls to find the oil life screen in the Driver Information Center.
• Press and hold SET/CLR until it resets to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Confirm the oil level is at the full mark on the dipstick.
• Double-check there are no leaks after a short 5–10 minute drive.
• Pour used oil into a sealed container and recycle it (most auto parts stores accept used oil and filters).
• If you removed it, confirm the splash shield is fully secured and not rubbing.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$75 (parts only)

You Save: $75-$125 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.