🔧 GLA - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

This service drains the old engine oil, replaces the oil filter element, then refills with fresh oil that meets Mercedes specs. Doing this on schedule protects the turbo and timing components from wear and sludge.

Assumption: Your GLA uses the M270 2.0L turbo with a top-mounted cartridge-style oil filter.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-1.8 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🧯 Let the engine cool 15–30 minutes; hot oil can burn.
• 🧰 Support the vehicle with jack stands before going underneath; never rely on a floor jack alone.
• 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses; oil can irritate skin and eyes.
• 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for an oil change.
• 🛞 Use wheel chocks on the rear wheels so the car cannot roll.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair)
• Wheel chocks
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• Torx T25 bit socket
• Torx T30 bit socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive extension (6")
• 13mm socket
• 27mm socket
• Torque wrench (10–60 Nm range)
• Oil filter cap wrench, 27mm (specialty)
• Plastic trim clip tool

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (MB-Approval 229.5 full synthetic, typically 0W-40 or 5W-40) - Qty: 7 quarts
• Oil filter cartridge kit (includes new O-rings) - Qty: 1
• Oil drain plug sealing washer - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🛞 Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
• 🔥 Run the engine 3–5 minutes, then shut it off (warm oil drains faster, but don’t work with it scorching hot).
• 🧰 Lay out tools and parts so you’re not searching while the car is in the air.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the front of the vehicle

• Use floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the front at the approved front center jack point.
• Set the car down onto jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair) at the left and right front support points.
• Give the car a gentle shake to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower undertray

• The undertray (also called a splash shield) is the plastic panel under the engine.
• Use Torx T25 bit socket and Torx T30 bit socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the undertray fasteners.
• If any plastic clips are present, pop them out with a plastic trim clip tool.
• Set the undertray and fasteners aside in a small pile so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Position the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to a drip (usually 10–15 minutes).
• Remove the old sealing washer from the drain plug and install the new oil drain plug sealing washer.
• Reinstall the drain plug by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).
• Tip: Wipe the drain area clean now.

Step 4: Replace the oil filter cartridge (top of engine)

• Open the hood and locate the oil filter housing cap on top of the engine (black cap with a hex shape).
• Place shop rags around the housing to catch drips.
• Use a 27mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and 3/8" drive extension (6") to loosen the cap, then lift it out slowly.
• The filter element pulls off the cap. Remove the old cartridge by hand and push the new oil filter cartridge kit onto the cap until it clicks/seats.
• Replace the O-ring(s) included with the filter kit:
  • Use your fingers to roll the old O-ring off the cap (don’t scratch the plastic).
  • Lightly coat the new O-ring with fresh oil (use a dab from the new oil bottle), then install it in the same groove.
• Reinstall the cap by threading it in by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Reinstall the undertray

• Lift the undertray back into position.
• Start all fasteners by hand first, then snug them using Torx T25 bit socket or Torx T30 bit socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet.
• Make sure the panel edges sit correctly so it doesn’t flap at highway speed.

Step 6: Refill with the correct oil

• Lower the car from the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum, pair) using the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Remove the oil fill cap and insert a funnel.
• Add about 6.5 quarts of engine oil (MB-Approval 229.5 full synthetic) first.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 7: Start, check for leaks, then set the final oil level

• Start the engine and let it idle 30–60 seconds.
• Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes.
• Check underneath for leaks at the drain plug and underhood at the oil filter cap.
• Top off in small amounts (about 0.2 quart at a time) until the electronic oil level reads OK.

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✅ After Repair

• 🧪 Check oil level using the instrument cluster (electronic dipstick): scroll to Service (wording varies) and select Oil level; follow the on-screen prompts.
• 🧼 Wipe any spilled oil off the engine and undertray using shop rags.
• 🗑️ Dispose of used oil and the filter properly (most parts stores accept used oil).
• 🛠️ Service reminder reset (cluster method varies):
  • Variant A (common): Use steering wheel buttons to go to Service > Full Service > Confirm.
  • Variant B (alternate): With ignition ON (engine OFF), use steering wheel controls to open the Service menu, select ASSYST or Service data, then confirm Reset.
• Tip: Recheck level again tomorrow morning.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $55-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $70-$265 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.