How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L
Step-by-step oil change guide with tools/parts list, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil life reset tips
How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L
Step-by-step oil change guide with tools/parts list, oil capacity, torque specs, and oil life reset tips
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change
This job drains the old oil and replaces the oil filter so your engine stays protected and clean inside. On your Grand Cherokee’s 3.6L, the oil filter is a cartridge style in a housing on top of the engine, so it’s easier and cleaner than some designs.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.2 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine if you’re new; hot oil can burn.
- ⚠️ Support the vehicle with jack stands on solid ground; never rely on a jack alone.
- ⚠️ Use wheel chocks so it can’t roll while lifted.
- ⚠️ Wipe spills immediately; oil is slippery and can smoke on hot parts.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Wheel chocks
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
- Funnel
- Shop rags
- Ratchet
- Torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range)
- 13mm socket
- 24mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Engine oil (5W-20 full synthetic, MS-6395 equivalent) - Qty: 6 quarts
- Engine oil filter cartridge with new O-rings - Qty: 1
- Oil drain plug gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Chock the rear wheels using wheel chocks.
- If you want faster draining, warm the engine 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains quicker.
- Pop the hood and remove the oil fill cap by hand (this helps it drain faster).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and support the front (if needed)
- Place the floor jack under the front center jack point and raise the front enough to work comfortably.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) at the proper front support points.
- Give the vehicle a gentle push to confirm it’s stable before you get under it.
Step 2: Drain the old engine oil
- Position the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
- Use a 13mm socket with a ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
- Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).
- Clean the drain plug and install a new oil drain plug gasket.
- Reinstall the drain plug by hand first, then tighten with a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 3: Remove the engine cover (for filter access)
- Grab the engine cover at the corners and pull straight up by hand to release it from the rubber grommets.
- Set it aside where it won’t get stepped on.
Step 4: Replace the oil filter cartridge (top of engine)
- Locate the oil filter housing cap on top of the engine.
- Use a 24mm socket with a ratchet to loosen the cap.
- Lift the cap and old filter cartridge out as an assembly and hold it over the drain pan to drip.
- Pull the old filter off the cap by hand.
- Remove and replace the O-ring(s) on the cap using a flat-blade screwdriver carefully. (An O-ring is a rubber sealing ring.)
- Lightly coat the new O-ring(s) with fresh oil (use a finger with a little oil).
- Install the new filter cartridge onto the cap, then reinstall into the housing.
- Tighten the cap using a torque wrench (10-80 ft-lb range): Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Add new engine oil
- Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
- Pour in 5.5 quarts of 5W-20 full synthetic, MS-6395 equivalent first.
- Reinstall the oil fill cap by hand.
- Start the engine and let it idle for 30-45 seconds, then shut it off.
- Wait 3-5 minutes, then check the dipstick and top off as needed (typically ends up near about 6 quarts total with filter change). Add oil slowly near “FULL”.
Step 6: Reinstall the engine cover and clean up
- Press the engine cover back down until it seats into the grommets.
- Use shop rags to wipe any oil residue around the filter housing and fill area.
- Lower the vehicle safely if it was lifted (use floor jack and remove jack stands).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and check underneath for leaks at the drain plug.
- Check around the oil filter housing (top of engine) for any seepage.
- Re-check the dipstick after a short 5-10 minute drive and top off if needed.
- Reset oil life on the cluster:
- Key on/engine off, use steering wheel buttons to reach Vehicle Info → Oil Life, then press and hold OK to reset.
- If your menu is different, use the same idea: find Oil Life and hold OK until it resets to 100%.
- Take used oil and the old filter to a recycling center or parts store that accepts waste oil.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$75 (parts only)
You Save: $75-$155 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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