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2013 Honda Accord
2013 Honda Accord
Sport - Inline 4 2.4L
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2013 Honda Accord engine oil and filter change

2013 Honda Accord engine oil and filter change

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, 0W-20 oil capacity, torque specs, and Oil Life reset steps

How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2013 Honda Accord

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, 0W-20 oil capacity, torque specs, and Oil Life reset steps

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Orion Logo White

🔧 Accord - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil. This keeps your Accord’s 2.4L engine properly lubricated and helps prevent wear and sludge buildup.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.8-1.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the car with jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 15-30 minutes to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Never get under a car held only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Keep oil off the exhaust and belts; wipe spills immediately.
  • ✅ Battery disconnect is not required for this job.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Drain pan (at least 8-quart capacity)
  • Funnel
  • Shop towels
  • Ratchet
  • 17mm socket
  • Torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
  • Oil filter wrench (adjustable band style)
  • Flat trim tool

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (0W-20 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Engine oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Oil drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
  • Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
  • Warm the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off and let it cool 15-30 minutes.
  • Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap (this helps oil drain faster).
  • If you’ll raise the front: lift with a floor jack and support with jack stands at the proper front pinch weld/jacking points.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Slide the drain pan under the engine area.
  • Use a flat trim tool to pop out the plastic clips on the small access panel/undercover near the drain plug area.
  • Fold the access panel down or remove it so you can reach the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 2: Drain the old engine oil

  • Position the drain pan directly under the oil pan drain plug.
  • Use a 17mm socket with a ratchet to loosen the drain plug.
  • Finish removing the plug by hand and let the oil drain fully (usually 5-10 minutes).
  • Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug and install the new one (the crush washer is a soft ring that seals the plug).

Step 3: Reinstall and torque the drain plug

  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a torque wrench with a 17mm socket to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 39 Nm (29 ft-lbs).
  • Tip: Hand-thread first, always.

Step 4: Remove the old oil filter

  • Move the drain pan under the oil filter area (oil will spill when the filter comes off).
  • Use an oil filter wrench (adjustable band style) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the filter (if it sticks to the engine, peel it off with a shop towel).

Step 5: Install the new oil filter

  • Put a light smear of new oil on the new filter’s rubber gasket using a gloved finger (nitrile gloves).
  • Spin the new filter on by hand until the gasket touches the engine, then tighten it.
  • If you can torque it: use a torque wrench and your oil filter wrench to tighten the filter: Torque to 12 Nm (9 ft-lbs).
  • If you can’t torque it with your setup: tighten 3/4 turn after the gasket first contacts.

Step 6: Reinstall the splash shield

  • Reposition the access panel/undercover.
  • Reinstall clips using your fingers, then seat them with a flat trim tool as needed.

Step 7: Refill with new engine oil

  • Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
  • Pour in 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil.
  • Refill amount (with filter change): start with about 4.0 quarts, then top off slowly to reach the full mark (total is typically about 4.4 quarts).
  • Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and verify the level

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • Shut the engine off and wait 3-5 minutes for oil to drain back into the pan.
  • Pull the dipstick, wipe it with shop towels, reinsert, then check level again.
  • Top off in small amounts using the funnel until the level is at (but not above) the full mark.
  • Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter.

Step 9: Reset the Oil Life / Maintenance Minder

  • Method A (most common on your Accord with i-MID):
  • Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
  • Use the steering wheel buttons to display the oil life / Maintenance Minder screen.
  • Press and hold the ENTER button until it blinks, then select RESET and confirm.
  • Method B (if your car uses the trip knob reset):
  • Turn ignition to ON (engine off).
  • Press the SEL/RESET (trip) knob until oil life is shown.
  • Press and hold the knob until it blinks, release, then press and hold again to reset.

✅ After Repair

  • Recheck the dipstick level the next morning (cold engine) and top off if needed.
  • Make sure there are no drips under the engine after a short drive.
  • Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil recycling center/parts store—don’t dump it.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹2,500-₹5,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹1,800-₹3,500 (parts only)

You Save: ₹700-₹1,500 by doing it yourself!

Shops vary by area; this usually takes about 0.8-1.2 hours.


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