🔧 Edge - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Change

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with the correct oil and reset the oil life monitor. Fresh oil protects your turbo engine from wear and sludge, especially with short trips.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the Edge with jack stands before going under it.
• ⚠️ Let the engine cool 20–30 minutes; hot oil can burn you.
• ⚠️ Keep oil off the serpentine belt and exhaust; wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Dispose of used oil and the filter at a recycling center/parts store.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this service.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Drain pan (8-quart minimum)
• Funnel
• Shop rags
• 15mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range)
• Flat trim clip tool
• 7mm socket
• 27mm socket
• Oil filter wrench (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic, Ford spec) - Qty: 6 quarts
• Oil filter - Qty: 1
• Drain plug gasket/washer (if equipped) - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
• Chock the rear wheels with wheel chocks.
• Warm the engine for 2–3 minutes, then shut it off. Warm oil drains faster.
• If your Edge has a lower splash shield, plan to remove the service panel first.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the Edge

• Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the front at the proper front jack point.
• Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
• Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it is stable.

Step 2: Remove the lower splash shield access (if equipped)

• Use a 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to remove any small screws holding the access panel.
• Use a flat trim clip tool to pop out plastic push-clips (pry the center up first, then remove the clip).
• Set the hardware aside so nothing gets lost.

Step 3: Drain the engine oil

• Place the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the oil pan drain plug.
• Use a 15mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen and remove the drain plug.
• Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5–10 minutes).
• Wipe the drain plug clean with shop rags.

Step 4: Reinstall the drain plug

• If your plug uses a sealing washer, replace it now.
• Thread the drain plug in by hand first (this helps prevent cross-threading).
• Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range) with a 15mm socket and Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Replace the oil filter (choose the style you have)

• Cartridge-style (filter inside a cap): The cap is usually a black plastic “cup” on the engine with a large hex on top.
• Use a 27mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet to loosen the cap slowly.
• Pull the cap up, remove the old filter from the cap, and install the new filter onto the cap.
• Replace the cap O-ring that comes with the filter and lightly coat it with fresh oil (use a finger).
• Reinstall the cap and use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–100 ft-lbs range) with a 27mm socket to Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
• Do not overtighten plastic caps.

• Spin-on style (metal can filter): The filter looks like a small metal canister screwed to the engine.
• Move the drain pan (8-quart minimum) under the filter area.
• Use an oil filter wrench (specialty) to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
• Make sure the old rubber gasket is not stuck to the engine mounting surface.
• Wipe the surface with shop rags.
• Lightly oil the new filter gasket with fresh oil, then install the new filter by hand until the gasket contacts, then tighten an additional 3/4 turn by hand.

Step 6: Reinstall the splash shield access (if removed)

• Reinstall push-clips using the flat trim clip tool as needed (push the outer clip in, then press the center pin flush).
• Reinstall screws using the 7mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.

Step 7: Refill with new oil

• Open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.
• Use a funnel and add about 5 quarts first.
• Wait 1 minute, then check the dipstick, and add oil in small amounts until the level is at the full mark.
• Reinstall the oil fill cap.

Step 8: Start, inspect, and recheck level

• Start the engine and let it idle for 30–60 seconds.
• Look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter area.
• Shut the engine off, wait 5 minutes, then recheck the dipstick and top off as needed using the funnel.

Step 9: Reset the oil life monitor

• Turn ignition ON (engine OFF).
• On the steering wheel controls, navigate the driver display to Settings > Vehicle > Oil Life Reset.
• Press and hold OK until it resets to 100%.

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✅ After Repair

• Confirm the oil level is on the full mark on the dipstick.
• Recheck for leaks after your first short drive.
• Pour used oil into sealed containers and recycle the oil and filter.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$200 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$115 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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