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2016 Nissan Juke
2011 - 2017 Nissan Juke
Inline 4 1.6L
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  • Guides
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  • Nissan Juke
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  • 2016
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  • How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (Engine: Inline 4 1.6L)
How to Change Oil 2011-2017 Nissan Juke 1.6L L4

How to Change Oil 2011-2017 Nissan Juke 1.6L L4

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
Safety
Safety
Glasses
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Nitrile
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How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (Engine: Inline 4 1.6L)

Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with tools, parts list, oil type/capacity, drain plug torque specs, and reset tips

How to Change Engine Oil & Replace the Oil Filter on a 2011-2017 Nissan Juke (Engine: Inline 4 1.6L)

Step-by-step DIY oil change guide with tools, parts list, oil type/capacity, drain plug torque specs, and reset tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017

Orion
Orion

🔧 Juke - Engine Oil & Oil Filter Replacement

You’ll drain the old engine oil, replace the oil filter, then refill with fresh oil to protect the engine from wear and heat. Doing this on schedule is one of the best ways to extend engine life and keep oil pressure healthy.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-2 hours

Assumption: your Juke uses 5W-30 full synthetic and a 14mm drain plug.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a level surface and support the vehicle on jack stands before going underneath.
  • ⚠️ Engine oil can be hot; let the engine cool 15-30 minutes to avoid burns.
  • ⚠️ Keep oil off belts and the exhaust to prevent smoke and odors.
  • ⚠️ No battery disconnect is required for this service.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile gloves
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8" drive ratchet
  • 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 Nm range)
  • 10mm socket
  • Phillips screwdriver #2
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Oil filter wrench (cap or band style)
  • Oil drain pan (8-quart minimum)
  • Funnel
  • Clean shop rags

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Engine oil (5W-30 full synthetic) - Qty: 5 quarts
  • Oil filter - Qty: 1
  • Drain plug crush washer - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park on level ground, place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels, and leave the transmission in 1st gear.
  • Run the engine for 2-3 minutes, then shut it off. This helps the oil drain faster without being dangerously hot.
  • Raise the front using a floor jack and support it securely on jack stands at the proper lift points.
  • Lay out your drain pan, rags, and new oil and filter so you’re not searching mid-job.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the lower splash shield (if equipped)

  • Position the oil drain pan under the engine area.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to remove the shield bolts.
  • Use a Phillips screwdriver #2 and trim clip removal tool to remove any plastic clips.
  • Keep clips in a cup so none vanish.

Step 2: Drain the old engine oil

  • Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine by hand (this helps oil drain smoother).
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to loosen the drain plug, then finish removing it by hand.
  • Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip (usually 5-10 minutes).

Step 3: Reinstall the drain plug with a new crush washer

  • Wipe the drain plug and the oil pan sealing surface using clean shop rags.
  • Install a new drain plug crush washer on the drain plug.
  • Thread the drain plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 3/8" drive torque wrench (a tool that clicks when the correct tightness is reached) to tighten the drain plug: Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 4: Remove the oil filter

  • Move the oil drain pan under the oil filter area (some oil will spill when the filter comes off).
  • Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter, then spin it off by hand.
  • Check that the old rubber gasket came off with the filter (a stuck gasket can cause a big leak).

Step 5: Install the new oil filter

  • Lightly coat the new filter’s rubber gasket with fresh oil (use a fingertip and a drop of new oil).
  • Spin the filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the engine, then tighten an additional 2/3 turn by hand.
  • Hand-tight is usually correct for filters.

Step 6: Reinstall the splash shield (if removed)

  • Position the shield and start all fasteners by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8" ratchet to snug the bolts.
  • Reinstall clips using the trim clip removal tool (press them in straight).

Step 7: Refill with new engine oil

  • Lower the vehicle from the jack stands using the floor jack.
  • Insert a funnel into the oil fill hole.
  • Pour in about 4.5 quarts of 5W-30 full synthetic to start.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap by hand.

Step 8: Start, check for leaks, and set the final oil level

  • Start the engine and let it idle for 30-60 seconds.
  • Shut the engine off and wait 5 minutes for oil to settle.
  • Check underneath for leaks around the drain plug and oil filter.
  • Check the dipstick level and add oil as needed using the funnel until it reaches the full mark (don’t overfill).

Step 9: Reset the oil maintenance reminder (if it’s on)

  • Use the steering wheel buttons to open the cluster settings and navigate to Settings > Maintenance > Oil and Filter > Reset.
  • If your cluster shows a different path, look for Maintenance or Service and reset Oil / Oil & Filter.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Take a short 5-10 minute drive, then recheck for leaks under the engine.
  • ✅ Recheck the dipstick once more after the drive and top off if needed.
  • ✅ Dispose of used oil and the old filter at an oil-recycling drop-off (many parts stores accept it).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $120-$220 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$85 (parts only)

You Save: $80-$135 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hours.


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